Iconic Prep Brand is Coming Home

Hello-hello, how wonderful to see Wednesday already, here at the Prepatorium the week is simply flying by.

We begin with a look at a once-iconic American brand, GANT.  For those not familiar with the company, Michael Williams at A Continuous Lean describes it succinctly:

“The name GANT is synonymous with East Coast prep.”

Below, two vintage ads show the company’s signature item, the GANT button-down.

Courtesy Gant

Some readers may recall the custom described in the Urban Daddy post below:

“Gant even invented the locker loop—that little coat-hook-friendly strip of fabric on the back of your shirt that your high school girlfriend cut off your lucky oxford to let all your classmates know you were taken, and maybe even going steady. (You kept the loop, just in case.)”

The company has been owned by a Swedish firm since 1999, there are 300 GANT stores all over the world and the company recently opened a GANT Rugger store (on Bleecker); Rugger targets a younger, sportier demo. Below, a look inside the new store.

GQ.com

Here is an image from the company’s UK site, better showing the line’s classic aesthetic.

Courtesy Gant

The good news? Designer Michael Bastian is doing a GANT line for women, in addition to the GANT menswear collection launching this fall.

John Aquino/WWD

The women’s line is being introduced to buyers at New York Fashion Week next month. WWD had an exclusive look at the group in this story, here are two more looks from the Spring 2011 collection.

We have known about the upcoming launch for some time, but hadn’t seen any pieces from the collection until the story ran in WWD.

“For his first outing, Bastian didn’t turn his back on Gant’s preppy Americana roots. Instead, the launch collection is preppy with a sexy attitude, from a seersucker dress with lace overlay — “I thought it had a good-girl/bad-girl dynamic” — to a cropped and boxy shirt that could have come straight from a boyfriend’s wardrobe…”

Also offering a look at the upcoming products, this story from The Cut.

Courtesy Photos via The Cut

In their interview with the designer, Mr. Bastian was asked about his favorite designers.

“The designer I always reference in my head is Perry Ellis, back when he was alive. People forget that at his peak, he was right up there with Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. Calvin was always the sexy one, Ralph was classic, and Perry slid down the middle — a little bit cleaner, simpler, but still luxurious. No one has stepped into those shoes.”

We tend to concur with that assessment.

The men’s line debuting this month carries traditional lines and prep-positive motifs.

David Rinella via GQ

The brand is gaining traction in the US, below we see Rachel Bilson in a GANT blazer, part of a photo spread in Page Six magazine.

Sheryl Nields for Page Six Magazine

We look forward to seeing the complete women’s line during Fashion Week. For an overview of GANT’s history and heritage, click here. To see Mr. Bastian’s runway collection from this spring’s Fashion Week, click here.

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A few other Bits and Bytes:

• Chanel is using FNO (Fashion’s Night Out, Sept. 10) to launch a collection of khaki nail polishes, seen below.  (With apologies to our Facebook Fans.)

Courtesy Images via Teen Vogue

• We have an early look at this year’s Bergdorf Goodman Christmas ornaments, including James the Doorman. (True confession: despite their rather commercial nature, we have collected several of these over the years from varying retail emporiums. Oh, the horror.)

Courtesy Photo via WWD

• And finally, we love seeing London Fog’s fall advertising campaign, featuring Joan Hollo Christina Hendricks of Mad Men.

London Fog/Nino Muñoz via The Cut

With that elegant look, we say g’bye until next time!

Gossip Girls at Fashion Week, Early Look: Liberty of London/Target Collaboration

Hello-Hello, and welcome to another wacky day at the Prepatorium!

Our focus today is Fashion Week.

Courtesy photo via WWD

Front and center at the Calvin Klein show yesterday, one of the Gossip Girl guys, Chace Crawford.  To the right of Mr. Crawford we see actors Ryan Phillippe and Kellan Lutz.

Another G2 star, Jessica Szohr was spotted in the front row at the Hervé Léger presentation; actress Melissa George is also seen in the picture.

Astrid Stawiarz/Getty

All of which brings us to the issue of fashion’s front row and the “M Word”, aka Money. Many years (many, many) years back we learned stars didn’t just appear at runway shows because they liked the designer and were able to acquire an invitation. Nay, nay fellow inhabitants of Planet Prep; the celebrities are paid to be there.

Cathy Horyn, fashion writer extraordinaire, has an outstanding column on the topic in Saturday’s Times.

“… once the exclusive domain of influential editors, retailers, socialites and celebrity friends of the designer. That fortress was breached long ago, about the time Paris Hilton and her Chihuahua showed up.”

Natch, we appreciated the reference to one of our original Anti-Preps, Ms. Hilton.  Rebecca Taylor’s front row included actresses Sophia Bush and Carmen Electra.

Brian Ach/Getty

Ms. Horyn’s article sheds light on other costs incurred by brands looking for what The Consort calls “warm props”:

“… the deals, trades and exclusive contracts — first-class airfare, hotel rooms for friends, per diems, designer boutique shopping sprees — that miraculously clear a path to the front row for a busy actress.”

Style site Fashionista ran a fascinating piece earlier this month, “How Much Brands Pay For Celebs to Sit in Their Front Rows“. Writer Lauren Sherman set out to determine what we’ll call ‘guesstimated rates’ for celebrities to appear at a show. Here are a few names from the Fashionista “A list”:

• Rihanna ($100,000 or more)
• Beyonce ($80,000-$100,000)
• Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen ($80,000 each)

Several Gossip Girl stars are on the “B List”:

• Blake Lively ($50,000)
• Leighton Meester ($40,000)
• Hillary Duff ($40,000)
• Other Gossip Girl cast members ($25,000 a piece)

For some reason we are guessing Mr. Crawford draws more than the $25,000 number cited above for appearances by ‘other cast members’.

Andrew H. Walker/Getty

The actor is seen with musician Lee Pace and actor Jared Leto in the photo above.  To see the rest of Fashionista’s list, including where Paris Hilton ranks, click here.  The story mentions that Marc Jacobs and Carolina Herrera have “virtually banned celebrities from their front rows,” an interesting turn of events.

Ms. Horyn’s story in the Times also discusses rates, quoting a publicist in the business, Roger Padilha:

“… “If you see an A-list star at a show, that’s because she’s making $100,000 on the deal.”

And talked about this year’s most wanted stars:

“Last season, Ms. Lively, a Gossip Girl, was considered a good get. This week, according to Mr. Padilha, “Sandra Bullock is the get. Even more so than Anne Hathaway.”

Back in the olden daze these were the only kind of people designers wanted to see at their shows:

Bryan Bedder/Getty

That is Grace Coddington (L) and Anna Wintour from Vogue magazine at this morning’s Zac Posen show.

We continue with another quick Gossip Girl mention; we can’t resist sharing two looks from the Peter Som show, as it was dubbed “Bohemian for the Blair Waldorf set” by Women’s Wear Daily.

That seems an appropriate description.

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We now move on to the Lacoste show.

Reviews for the fall/winter styles were mixed. The Journal’s Heard on the Runway blog was favorable:

“All of the looks were infinitely wearable, suggesting that what Lacoste lacks in high fashion, it makes up for in saleability.”

That ‘saleability’ factor is not always seen as a positive to fashion editors; from the NY Times’ brief review:

“… as the show evolved into hot, strong color, Lacoste seemed to be trying too hard to be a “fashion” brand.

WWD was not complimentary in their review.

“In a rather lackluster show missing Lacoste’s usual verve and focus, there was layering, bright color blocking and sometimes an easy slouchy mood.”

Heard on the Runway’s writeup also explained the look seen on the female models:

“A highlight of the collection was the knit leggings that widened at the bottom to cover the high heels….  dubbed “longjohn [sic] leggings” and called them “his answer to sweatpants.”

“The look gave off something of a pants-cum-legwarmer appearance… a fresh take on what is becoming a staid trend….”

More from WWD:

“Still, designer Christophe Lemaire reminded his audience of the panache of seasons past with some chic little sweater dresses and terrific outerwear in double-faced wool or handknitted alpaca.”

Women’s Wear Daily also went backstage at Lacoste to look at what the trade paper called “smoldering eyes”.

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With the insanely high-heeled shoes continuing to dominate shows it is no surprise to see more models struggling to stay vertical. Below, Agyness Deyn took a tumble at the Haiti Relief benefit show.

Frazer Harrison/FFR/Getty

Actually the supermodel fell twice at the show.

The young woman handled the falls with aplomb.

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We close with a look at some of the designs from the Liberty of London and Target collaboration.

Courtesy photo via Oprah.com

Targét elected to release a few styles exclusively via the Oprah website, an interesting decision on the retailer’s part.  The infant’s dress will retail at $13, the Misses dress at $35.

Courtesy photo via Oprah.com

The hat is going to be priced at $13.

Courtesy photo via Oprah.com

The collection launches March 15.

Until next time, may all of your runways be trouble-free!

PHOTO CREDITS:

• Peter Som/WWD:
• Robert Mitra/WWD: Lacoste Runway
• Couturture: Lacoste Runway
• Kyle Ericksen/WWD:

Tory Burch & Lilly Pulitzer: “Go Ahead – Walk All Over Us”

Hello-Hello, and welcome to a Monday.

We have a number of little items that are really all over the map, we’ll start with last Thursday’s benefit at the Lilly Pulitzer Mother Ship in Manhattan, a fundraiser for Operation Smile.  Below we see Jamie Korey and Hayley Bloomingdale in their Lilly garb.

PHOTO: Ben Hider

Many readers may already be familiar with the organization; they work all over the world providing surgery and other assistance to children with facial deformities.

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Next, the story of several fashion designers helping another charitable group,”Fashion Targets Breast Cancer, through rug designs, how is that for a different twist on fashion fundraising? Below we share a design by Tory Burch:

Courtesy FTBC via So Haute!

Next, Lilly Pulitzer “cuts a rug”. (That was really, really bad. Yep.)

Courtesy FTBC via So Haute!

Other designers helping out include Oscar de la Renta, Thakoon, and Calvin Klein.  For more information, this news release may be helpful.

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Next, a quick look at a recent WaPo (Washington Post) story entitled The New (Prep) School, with a subhead reading Preppy Menswear Goes Subtly Subversive.  Below, a sampling from the story:

“Khakis. Button-downs. Boat shoes. All the usual suspects are here, only something’s . . . different. A strategically placed epaulet here, an acid-bright citrus hue there. These new menswear pieces are preppy, indeed, but over the past several seasons, the look has become less about blending in at boarding school and more about standing out in a sea of collared shirts and cargo shorts.”

The story is accompanied by a slide show with different menswear, including the shirt and denim tie seen below.

PHOTO: Julia Ewan/Washington Post

The story offers perspective from Kelly Muccio, owner of the popular Lost Boys menswear shop in DC.  Now anyone seeing the subtitle of the story would properly presume TP’s knee-jerk reaction would be “Preppy that is subversive? We think not!”. But when perusing the store’s online site we must acknowledge favorable reactions to many of the looks she showcases.

BTW, we are presuming the title of the story references NYC Prep, although we could easily be wrong on this.

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Our next tidbit also comes courtesy of the Post, Robin Givran’s column yesterday, just one more of many adding to the media frenzy regarding President Obama’s choice in jeans.

Seriously.

Now, as someone who frequently creates major mountains out of microscopic molehills in this very space, we tried to wrap our tiny little brain around the notion that the President’s denim merited an entire column from someone of Ms. Givhan’s skills. Really we did, Scout’s Honor.

Sadly we failed miserably in these efforts, and continue to be amazed at the level of attention directed at the topic. In case you have been fortunate enough to have missed the genesis of all this, the backstory: fashionitas took exception to the “Mom jeans” worn by the President wore to last week’s All Star game.

PHOTO: Mike Stone/Reuters

Among the many sins described in the story:

• “They were too short; one could see the tops of his sneakers and a hint of white socks when he was at a standstill”
• “They were baggy — but lacking in old-school urban swagger or beachcomber… It wouldn’t be surprising to discover that the jeans were “relaxed fit.”
• “Adding to the jeans’ unattractiveness: They had creases. They were light blue. Practically stonewashed.”
• “But really, these are the jeans of middle-aged dads who have thrown in the towel and decided that when they get home from the office and take off their suit, all they care about is comfort.”

Ms. Givhan’s very well-written column makes a case that *everything* worn by POTUS is important:

“…any hint of rarefied tastes or an aesthetic sensibility that is more Barneys New York than Macy’s raises questions about whether they are fit for the job of representing all the regular folks.

When it comes to clothes, the president must appear to be as mass market and main floor as possible. So Obama cannot display the old-money, preppy informality of John F. Kennedy.”

While we basically agree with the premise, dissection of the jeans worn by Mr. Obama seems a trifle over the top, even when considered in tandem with yesterday’s column.  The last sentence of this next portion shows where Ms. Givhan lost us:

“And when he is not cutting a fine figure in board shorts — and managing to exude vim-and-vigor in that JFK way — he will need an alternative uniform. The blousy polo shirts will not do. And neither will those beloved jeans. They may be comfortable and they may be neatly pressed, but they are not in the least bit presidential.“

We now bow to your fine taste and wisdom, asking this question: are we hopelessly out of touch here at the Prepatorium, thinking all the hoo-hah is more-than-a-little-silly?

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We close with a look at a darling set from our former-friends, the Tiffany Tots Whale Baby Set:

Courtesy Tiffany

It is cute, yes?

On that note, we are off! May your day be fantabulous!

‘Pernicious Prep’ and Gossip Girls & Guys Hit the Shows

Happy Day everyone! The sun is bright & beautiful here at Intergalactic HQ for the Princess, it is just delightful!

First off, our Lilly Pulitzer Stationery Giveaway (featuring this Mix ‘n Match set) winner is Preppy Mama! We used Random.org to select the winner, congratulations to Preppy Mama!

We continue our Fashion Week coverage with the focus on those lines showing a preppy aesthetic. But before we even get to looks for fall, how about this look for right now from Boy by Band of Outsiders?! If the brand is not familiar and the name perhaps off-putting, be assured this is the women’s collection by Band of Outsiders, marked by tailored lines, flawless fabrics and attention to detail.

The Cropped Blazer with Grosgrain Binding is available online at Opening Ceremony, an outstanding retailer that did not have online shopping until this week. We are ever-so-pleased we can now graze and perhaps purchase at the website, although the majority of their wares are far too hip for TP.  They also do loads of collaborations, especially on footwear.

Last year the company collaborated with Sperry for distinctive Topsiders (Top-siders) and they are doing so again this year. In this post we talked about the line being named as “The Brand” for preppy attire by Complex.

Below, we shift to a Fall 2009 look.

In their review yesterday of the Band of Outsiders fall presentation at Fashion Week, Racked refer to it as “Pernicious Prep,” adding:

“…attendees found models posed in various tableaux vivants, all channeling naughty prep schoolboy/girl.”

Another style from the fall collection:

PHOTO: George Chinsee

BTW (by the way), the shoes in the presentation were all Manolo Blahnik.  One more style below:

PHOTO: George Chinsee

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It was only a matter of time before we heard about Gossip Girl cast members in attendance at the shows. Chace Crawford was spotted at the Calvin Klein show; below, a look from the Men’s RTW Fall 2009 line.

PHOTO: Thomas Iannaccone

WWD caught up with the actor before things got underway:

“Crawford…had the day off from taping “Gossip Girl,” pleaded ignorance about fashion even though the show is so stylish. “The fashion on the show is really for women,” he said.”

The star sat next to Jared Leto.

PHOTO: Getty Images

And the folks at The Cut also queried Mr. Crawford about his reaction to the show:

“”Favorite pieces? Uh, I like the solids, the grays,” he said. “I’m not that savvy with fashion.” He added that he feels “very weird” going to fashion shows. So why was he there? “They give me great clothes.” Touché.”

The show is now such a part of fashion culture that in their Band of Outsiders review, the writer at Racked refers to a model in the presentation as sporting “…what we like to call the “Chuck Bass lewd leer”.

Some in the fashion media are speculating about the ‘dueling Gossip Girls’ at Thursday’s Proenza Schouler show. The word is that Vogue‘s guest for the show is another G2 star, actress Blake Lively while Elle magazine is hosting Leighton Meester. We aren’t exactly anticipating any spat. Honestly.

Speaking of Vogue, editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and actress/designer Sarah Jessica Parker chatted up a storm at the Alexander Wang show.

PHOTO: Louis Lanzano/AP

In attendance at Herve Leger, actresses Lucy Liu and Mad Men star January Jones.

PHOTO: Carlo Allegri/Reuters

Here is another shot of Ms. Jones at the Leger show, and we think she almost looks like an entirely different person:

PHOTO: Steve Eichner

It matters not what angle the star is shot, for she is always lovely.

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Time for us to toddle off to other duties, we shall close with a look at the new Samsonite Black Label group by Viktor and Rolf.

PHOTO: Courtesy Samsonite via Hypebeast

We can’t remember the last time we saw a bow on luggage! We also find the retro airplane print rather fetching.

Photos Courtesy Samsonite via Hypebeast

Our thanks to Hypebeast for the story tip as well as the images.

Until next time dolls, may it be splendid and sunny wherever you are today!

Barbie’s Fabulous 50th & Lilly Pulitzer Contest Reminder!

Hello-Hello and Happy Start of the New Week!

PHOTO: Timothy Clary/AFP

In yesterday’s post we promised more on the special Barbie Show at Fashion Week; we begin with more on those in attendance, including, a number of the social set. Below, Muffie Potter Aston and daughters, Bracie and Ashleigh Tatiana.

PHOTO: Getty

Also in attendance? The one-and-only Fashion Herald; we almost emitted a most-unbecoming shriek when we read her Tweets about it!

Next, the little ones gather backstage.

PHOTO: Patrick McMullan

For those unfamiliar with all the hoopla, in honor of Barbie’s 50th Anniversary this year, fifty designers created actual looks for the show. Below, Rachel Roy’s sketch…

Courtesy Rachel Roy

And the real deal, designed to honor the very first Barbie outfit.

Lucas Jackson/Reuters

Yesterday’s post really had a better shot of the special Christian Louboutins worn by every model walking the show; here is another look. (Not a terribly flattering shot, is it?!)

PHOTO: Stephen Chernin/AP

We retract a portion of the previous: not every model was wearing the Louboutin heels:

PHOTO: Stephen Chernin/AP

Those look like your basic Chuck Taylors to us, too cute! Now, we are guessing this next dress is the Diane von Furstenberg creation:

PHOTO: Imaxtree

It looks like the basic wrap dress… yes? And below, we are also guessing on the designer. The style seems very Tory Burch to us.

PHOTO: Imaxtree

Here is the Tommy Hilfiger sketch for his beaded white mini-dress, very “groovy,” don’t you think?!

And the real deal:

PHOTO: Imaxtree

Here is TP’s favorite unidentified look:

PHOTO: Imaxtree

Another unknown design:

PHOTO: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for IMG

Other designers we are fond of who participated in the show were Calvin Klein, Trina Turk and Bob Mackie.  Here is a closing shot of the models and their young escorts…

PHOTO: Thomas Iannaccone

A few notes on things related to all of the above:

• To see all of the incredible Barbie dolls dressed by Bob Mackie, click here.
• To read the Suzy Menkes story in the IHT about the show, click here.
• Trina Turk is having a sale online; we do not know about markdowns at brick and mortar retail outlets.
• Calvin Klein is doing 30% off select spring styles for the President’s Day weekend.
• The clearance sale at Tory Burch continues, with 40 – 60% off original retail prices.
• The Tommy Hilfiger Fall/Winter 2009/2010 collection shows on Thursday. Below, a few sketches from that group.

Courtesy Photo via the Telegraph (UK)

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We will share more from Fashion Week as appropriate and when time permits. Tomorrow’s dance card includes the Brooks Brothers Collection Preview (not a runway show, but at the Madison Avenue store), Carolina Herrera, and one of First Lady Michelle Obama’s favorites, Thakoon.

Before we dash, a quick reminder on entering our Lilly Pulitzer Stationery Giveaway:

Lilly Pulitzer Mix & Match Stationery

To win the Mix ‘n Match stationery set, just leave a comment on this post, or any other. To learn how to be entered more than once, click here. We will use Random.org to pick the winner tomorrow (Monday, 2.16), before noon!