“The Importance of Being Preppy”

Hello-Hello!

Today we have a mish-mash (a highly technical journalistic term) of tidbits, many relating to topics recently chatted about in this space. The first is a story from our friends on the far side of the pond, “The Importance of Being Preppy“. The piece first ran in Saturday’s Guardian and has been picking up traction online, it profiles Tommy Hilfiger while also looking at the style many refer to as “preppy.”

Tim Know for The Guardian (UK)

Writer Hadley Freeman begins her story with a description of Mr. Hilfiger’s office.

“Even the designer’s office is American to a nigh-on parodic degree: on the top floor of an unassuming building in midtown Manhattan, Hilfiger has tricked the place out to resemble the inside of a chi-chi beach house, replete with white painted floorboards, beach chairs, antique mirrors and striped awnings, where waiters in white buttoned-up shirts tote around goblets of ice water with slivers of lemon.”

Some readers might already be speculating the story is pegged to the recent announcement from Mr. Hilfiger of Prep World, a capsule collection he is launching with True Prep author Lisa Birnbach; such speculation would be accurate. (For our tedious in-depth post on the topic and photos from the line, click here.)

Courtesy Image via Daily Front Row

Back to the story and Ms. Freeman’s description of the preppy aesthetic, it may surprise some readers.

“It is also, incidentally, a look that denotes wealth, or at least aspiration to it. Its nearest equivalent in Britain is the Sloane, but preppiness has less to do with old systems of class and more to do with new money.”

We suggest this might be surprising because of the general presumption that “preppy style” is attached to old money, not new. You know, back in the olden days when such things were not discussed?  (To be candid, any discussion of finances, be they rooted in relatives who floated over on the Mayflower or as new as this year’s hottest hedge fund, is vulgar and really not appropriate, we generally avoid the topic if at all possible.) Back to the Guardian story.

“…in lieu of having a centuries-old class system, America has a profound fascination with money. Along with Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren has long loved the preppy look, and many others – from up-and-coming designer Tory Burch to US high-street outlet J Crew – base their entire labels on the look. Hilfiger suggests its popularity now is a reaction to the global recession. After all, he says with a merry laugh, it’s a way of looking “not poor”.

The story’s timing also relates to Fashion Week, starting this evening; Mr. Hilfiger has been heavily promoting his runway shows via the company’s Facebook pages.

Via Facebook

Ms. Freeman’s story also offers detailed background on the brand:

“By the beginning of the 21st century, the Hilfiger brand had lost much of its fashion lustre, due to overdistribution and an overfondness of branding. “There was a bit of a backlash,” Hilfiger concedes with understatement.”

Understatement indeed.  Without commencing a yawn-inducing retrospective, we shall only say that we have long struggled with Mr. Hilfiger’s penchant for logos the size of canned hams.  Or bigger.  The designer’s recent move toward designs without his initials splattered everywhere is promising; we are intrigued to see the fall runway looks as well as the Prep World pieces.

Mr. Hilfiger is no stranger to the UK’s fashion faithful, during last fall’s London Fashion Week he appeared in a “My Week in Pictures” feature for the Guardian’s sister publication, The Observer.

Dimitrios Kambouris/WireImage via The Guardian

Above, a photo from the feature shows the designer and his wife Dee with Jennifer Lopez.

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Next, another story looks at the style, this one from The Cavalier Daily, UVA’s student newspaper. “Through pink-and green-colored glasses” provides a student’s view on “U.Va.’s preppy identity in popular culture”.  A snippet from the story by Caroline Massie:

“So where exactly does this reputation stem from? One may look to the year 1979 when alumnus Tom Shadyac (College, 1981) created the “Are you a preppie?” poster as a fundraiser for his fraternity, Sigma Chi, which needed money to pay off a debt.”

Mod Culture

“Shadyac said preppy attire was not unique to U.Va. at the time. Rather, it was prevalent among traditional East Coast colleges.

“Pink and green could’ve been our national colors,” he said.

To read Ms. Massie’s entire story, click here.

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One item that would have better fit in yesterday’s post with all of its bridal buzz, word that Isaac Mizrahi is doing a limited bridal line for Aisle New York, the online members-only (ahem) site offering flash sales of discounted gowns and accessories.

Courtesy Image via WWD

Here is more from Mr. Mizrahi’s site:

“Isaac’s capsule collection of gowns and accessories will be available for six months, launching at the end of February 2011. According to Isaac, “the best place to shop for your wedding gown is the privacy of your own computer.” Hooray for all you blushing brides!”

(If in need of an invite, just click here.)

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The other mention that would have been much more appropriate yesterday, a look at House Beautiful’s March issue, the cover highlights the upcoming Lilly Pulitzer Furniture line in a feature titled “The Power of Pink”.

House Beautiful via Lilly Pulitzer blog

For those who haven’t yet seen the issue the Lilly blog offers a look at the story, while the House Beautiful website carries a number of wonderful pink tie-ins, including a delightful look at “Pink in Unusual Places” from The Accessorator, Judi Roaman.  Below, Ms. Roaman’s picture of the pink roses sculpture on Park Avenue.

Judi Roaman/The Accessorator via House Beautiful

Pop over and visit the Lilly blog for more, or click here for our post on the furniture line.

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Our final two images are quasi-timely, the first involves a new movie and the other, Fashion Week.

Alberto E. Rodriguez for Paramount Pictures

Above, Justin Bieber last night as he arrives at the premiere of “Justin Bieber: Never Say Never” in Los Angeles.   Next, Anna Wintour arriving for the Armani couture show in Paris last month.

Jacky Naegelen/Reuters

Why haul out the pictures? Because we just had to do a little side-by-side comparison.

And Young Mister Bieber.

Not bad at all IOHO, the finger puppets are from Mullish Muse on etsy, we thought they were cute as could be and couldn’t resist sharing.

On that wacky note we say goodbye until next time.

 

Lisa Birnbach + Tommy Hilfiger = “Prep World”

Well, hello there. Did you say sunny and 75?

Sadly, if you were hopeful of a completely escapist post sans any mentions of the “S word” or “B word”, we are destined to disappoint.  Both of us have spent much too much time in Chicago (The Consort lived there for several years) to allow complete avoidance of last night’s storm.  Below, a view of Lake Shore Drive last evening.

Lauran Berta via Chicago Sun-Times

The conditions were beyond wretched, the road remains closed as of this writing, hundreds of people were trapped in a massive traffic jam for hours. How bad was it?  From a Trib story about the mess:

“With snow caked over the windows of his Honda, he called 911 for help. The dispatcher told him to use his best judgment.

So he turned off his engine to preserve gas, called his family to tell them that he was OK and split a snack-size Nestle Crunch bar with his friend.”

E. Jason Wambsgans/Chicago Tribune

Lake Shore Drive remains littered with abandoned vehicles, above we show the road this morning. Below, a CTA bus that had to be abandoned.

E. Jason Wambsgans/Chicago Tribune

Passengers were rescued after six hours.

Brian Cassella/Chicago Tribune

Here is another look at LSD today, this one via ChicagoPhotoSho. The picture is rapidly going viral, perhaps because of its post-apocalyptic feel.

Via ChicagoPhotoSho

Another man’s story:

“Jim Kaczmarek said he was not rescued until 8:30 a.m. after spending more than 17 hours trapped on the drive… He said he called 911 several times, and was told officials were aware of the problem but couldn’t do anything about it.

He also called 311, where a woman who answered suggested he take a bus, flag a cab, or go to a homeless shelter.”

Mr. Kaczmarek also says he realizes he never should have gotten on Lake Shore Drive to begin with.  There is much discussion today about whether or not the City should have closed the road earlier, for more, click here for the Trib story.

Below, how Chicago firefighters got around.

Brian Cassella/Chicago Tribune

We are more-than-grateful to be inside, warm and dry.

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On to our primary topic today, news of “Prep World,” a collaboration between author best-selling author Lisa Birnbach and Tommy Hilfiger.

Courtesy Image via DailyFrontRow

The True Prep author and Mr. Hilfiger are launching a capsule collection with that moniker.  The marketing campaign includes what some call a “pop-up shop,” in this case one inspired by a Hamptons cottage.

John Aquino/Women's Wear Daily

Lisa Lockwood at WWD (Women’s Wear Daily, subscription req’d.) was first with the story yesterday, “A Marriage Made in Preppy Heaven“.

“Prep World, a capsule collection for women and men, will launch this spring with a global tour, featuring “drop-in shops” and events hosted by Hilfiger and Birnbach. The line will include 60 pieces that celebrate Hilfiger’s preppy classics with a twist, accessorized with such accoutrements as boat shoes, duck boots, Ping-Pong paddles and badminton rackets.”

Here are some of the photos accompanying the article.

John Aquino/Women's Wear Daily

More pieces in the upcoming collection.

John Aquino/WWD.com

We do like the look of these shirts, no surprise to those already familiar with our fondness for madras and nautical looks.

There are polos shirts in a rainbow of colors.

Style wrote about last night’s preview for fashion editors, “…at a gin-and-tonic-fueled party.”

“Interested shoppers can get their hands on the goods when the roving store opens in New York on April 28th. But, please, don’t be so vulgar as to call it a “pop-up.” Others pop; true preps “drop in.

Oops. Dopey Princess.

Women’s merchandise will run $35-$298, the men’s line will be priced at $45-$178; the chinos also have appeal.

We have seen the new line referred to as a “True Prep” collection, although we believe the proper name is simply “Prep World,” among other things, Vineyard Vines already has items showcasing the True Prep name.

Many of the new styles look promising, while others are clearly not for us.  Tee-shirts proclaiming “prep” simply don’t work at the Prepatorium, nor do logos. Of any kind.

Yet there are many items we saw with classic lines and appeal.

Via Style.com

The collection mirrors our ongoing conundrum with Mr. Hilfiger’s merchandise, sartorial confusion perhaps best described in this post from last fall about the designer’s runway collection for spring 2011.

“We begin with a brand that we always approach with trepidation; Tommy Hilfiger. (We fear one day we shall be attacked by a giant “TH” logo.)

John Aquino/WWD

Our post went on to say the looks were surprisingly attractive, as we had long ago relegated the designer’s work to nouveau-prep status, verging on Anti-Prep territory, it was that hideous.  But many publications have noted Mr Hilfiger’s efforts to “re-invent” his merchandise, we imagine this is part of that effort.

Daily Front Row also wrote about the upcoming line.

“Their limited edition collection offers modern-day Muffys and Cuthberts prep attire that melds European silhouettes with Americana sensibilities, along with necessary lifestyle adornments like cocktail shakers and croquet sets. The collection channels “Nantucket, in the summer… it’s traditionally preppy but it has a bit of grime to it,” Hilfiger said in a conversation with Birnbach this week. “You know, like a salty dog.”

(We do carry True Prep at The Princess, and have also done multiple interviews with Ms. Birnbach, click here and here for a sampling of the of those posts.) Below, springtime candy colors from the collection.

Courtesy Image

Here is a look at some of the creative you will see in the upcoming advertising campaign.

Courtesy Image via DailyFrontRow.com

To read more about the collection:

• Daily Front Row story
• Daily Front Row interview with Ms. Birnbach & Mr. Hilfiger
• Style.com story on the collection
• Thread blog story

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We cannot do a post without marking the significance of the day; we simply must note that there is Punxsutawney Phil and then there is Punxsutawney Till.

Punxsutawney Till

(With apologies to our Twitter pals for the repetition.)

Our other whimsical tidbit comes via our friend Christian over at Ivy Style.

Via Ivy Style

An original Preppie video game, circa 1982, we had nary a clue such an item even existed. Just another example of why we love the interwebs. 🙂

 

Preppy is Back (Version 29… or thereabouts) & Identifying the North Shore Prep

Hello-Hello, and Happy-Happy Friday to everyone!

Yes, we do think today merits two Happies, it has been that kind of week. We remain mystified at our ongoing delusion that tomorrow shall possess a marked diminution in stress and activity, it is that point in the season where allofthedaysruntogether.  But it is loads of fun and we are grateful to be doing what we love, if we were still doing television it’s likely we would currently be engaged in weather coverage (you know what we mean, portraying a little snow as apocalyptic, the forecast requiring DEFCON 4 status, that sort of thing) at this point.

As our headline notes, Preppy is Back! Again! To be honest, we have nary a clue if this is Version 29 (as cited in the post title) or 42 or 18; we haven’t kept track in our 774 posts (eek!) of all the times we have reported such declarations and pronouncements.  This time CNBC is the media outlet sharing the ‘news’.

To be fair, the cable news channel’s story approaches the topic from a business perspective. “Straight Up or With a Twist, Preppy’s Back” looks at retailers benefiting from a resurgence of the styles some associate with the preppy aesthetic.

“The preppy style is making a comeback, but before you go digging through your father’s polos and grabbing your grandmother’s pearls, know that this time around “picnic chic” has some new twists.”

The story references Russell Simmon’s Argyleculture brand.  (FYI, the image below is not from the CNBC story, just one we selected when seeking images to better familiarize ourselves with the company.)

Via Blackpreneur

Writer Ashley Kalinke spoke with a stock expert for her article:

“Preppy is starting to make a comeback,” says Christine Chen, a retail analyst at Needham & Co. “It isn’t quite mainstream yet other than in the teen market where you see the varsity jackets, but it’s definitely making a comeback. We’re still very much stuck in the ’80s, and seeing ’80s [inspired trends] in the stores. But, that’s done. The shift is happening. “

Ahem.  A shift? Nay, nay sayeth preps everywhere.

The story looks at several versions of “prep” previously discussed in this space, notably “urban prep,” “hipster prep,” along with other styles not applicable to our personal taste. The ‘shift’ described in the article is attributed to consumers growing tired of denim.

“As a result, the style evolved to corduroy and khaki, which are inherently dressier fabrics that create more formal everyday style. This look can even conjure up a nautical feel that then lends itself to boat shoes, Breton stripes and a navy blazer, and eventually you begin to see a more classic preppy look emerge.”

The story lists LL Bean, Brooks Brothers, Vineyard Vines and Lilly Pulitzer as brands benefiting from the increased focus on classic styles.

True Prep author Lisa Birnbach is quoted in the story; we couldn’t agree with her more about a brand currently occupying a place on the AntiPrep Wall of Shame.

“There is some debate whether Abercrombie is a true prep, despite its polos and button-down shirts. Birnbach says it’s not.”It’s not preppy anymore,” she says. “What they are selling now is sex on the coattails of a brand name that’s elegant, and ‘American,’ but it’s not the same.”

Amen to that sentiment.  As always, we smile at the return of something that never left, but in this case we can see where evolving styles have impacted sales and profits at certain retailers, prompting CNBC’s coverage.  Click here to read the story in its entirety.

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The Trib (Chicago) also had a preppish piece, asking “Who is the North Shore Prep?” Here are a few identifying traits from the story.

• “The North Shore prep lives in Wilmette, Winnetka, Glencoe, Lake Forest, Lake Bluff and Kenilworth. They typically hug the coast (preppies like water)”

• “Highland Park was said to have too many “new money” families to be prep; while at the Lake Forest Book Store, owner Sue Boucher illustrated the difference: “Someone was just honking (outside the store), and I kept thinking, ‘We don’t honk here.’ In Highland Park, they honk. Decorum is what it’s all about.”‘

• “…not prone, for instance, to wearing the ostentatious new Ralph Lauren shirts “with the giant Polo pony horrifying to anyone of a true prep sensibility” — so described by Lance Lawson, whose clothing store, space519, in the 900 Shops on Michigan Avenue, has become a North Shore magnet. They gravitate more to regulation L.L. Bean duck boots.”

Writer Christopher Borelli’s piece merits a read, at least for those of us spending a little time on that side of The Large Lake; it also offers a “Select Preppy Reading List”.  (We do count on Third Coast Prep, Preppy Little Dress, La Belette Rouge, Tippy L and others to advise us of any egregious errors in Mr. Borelli’s story.)

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A few additional tidbits:

• Nashville preps will be happy to know Vineyard Vines will add a second store in that city, the new one is slated to open in February.
• J. McLaughlin celebrates its new Westport (CT) store this Sunday.

J. McLaughlin

• Dior’s flagship store on 57th Street reopened this week after a major remodeling, a number of celebrations marked the occasion. On hand at the store, actress Amy Adams and Gossip Girl’s Leighton Meester.

Our favorite look had to be Karolina Kurkova’s (L), while Natalie Portman was stunning.

As many readers know, Miss Portman’s “Black Swan” open across the US tonight, that one is near the top of our list.

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Tomorrow we have a special treat, a visit from the Queen Bee herself.  The Bee is going to be popping in now and again to share some of her thoughts and insights on April’s royal wedding, and tomorrow is the first of her posts. We are very excited the inimitable Bee is going to be visiting!

On that sunny note, may everyone revel in a stellar weekend filled with cheer and charity.

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ADDITIONAL PHOTO CREDITS:

• Dimitrios Kambouris/Wire Image
• Steve Eichner/WWD
• Jason Kempin/Getty

A Designer Changes Our Mind, True Prep’s Lisa Birnbach & Lilly Pulitzer Get Together

Hello-Hello, happy Tuesday!

Today is hectic (this is new?), jammed with heavy volunteer commitments, so we are über-brief.  We planned to start today’s post by going off on a psychotic rant mentioning our disdain for the “pre-fall” collections being revealed this week. Something about “Do we need yet another season? On top of Spring, Fall and Resort? Really?”

But then this popped up:

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Via Style.com

And these, and many more like them, showed up on the monitor.

Did we remain on task here at The Prepatorium? Indeed, we did not.

The pieces are by the master himself, Oscar de la Renta.

They far transcend what would be called ‘eye candy’ in today’s parlance.

The designer makes some seriously spectacular party frocks.

We take back everything we were going to say about an additional season. At least when it comes to Mr. de la Renta we do.

To see the entire collection, pop over to visit Style.com

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Our other tidbit involves a few more-than-notable preps, and a blogger we have long enjoyed reading, Preppy Panache.

Courtesy Preppy Panache

As it turns out, True Prep author Lisa Birnbach was doing a signing at the Lilly Pulitzer exhibit in Boynton Beach, and Miss Panache was on hand to have her book signed and enjoy the exhibit.  To see some of Lilly’s reaction to the exhibit (including some lace trim on a dress) just click here to see the entire post, it is a very fun read.

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We leave you with a bit of a “Like Mother, Like Daughter” pair of pictures.

Above left, Princess Caroline of Hanover and on the right, her daughter, Charlotte Casiraghi, at this weekend’s Gucci Masters show-jumping competition. Below, the two together at the event.

Stephane Feugère/WWD

Do you think there is a strong resemblance?

With that, we are out the door and off!

 

ADDITIONAL PHOTO CREDITS:

• Yves Forestier/Getty Images
• Robert Mitra/WWD

 

About Those True Prep Reviews, Savings of the Preppish Sort

Hello-Hello, and welcome to a Wednesday.

Today we have our promised follow-up to yesterday’s post.  That piece focused on our recent interview with True Prep author Lisa Birnbach, and we promised to look at reviews for the book. The Palm Beach Daily News speaks highly of the book:

“Like its predecessor, True Prep sardonically skewers the social customs of the blue blooded and Blue Booked — and, in keeping up with the times, is a far more egalitarian sort of social X-ray.

Preppiness is not for everyone, and that is the gift. It is a club that requires a certain comfort in its singularity — and that, book or no, is what continues to give Birnbach plenty to celebrate in her own effervescent way.”

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At the opposite end of the spectrum, the Crimson’s story is fairly negative:

“For the most part, the book—a series of short little features on subjects as diverse as trunk shows, second weddings, and different types of loafers—is an entertaining encapsulation of one of the most recognizable (and ridiculous) styles under the sun, and the author certainly maintains a healthy sense of humor throughout. But underneath the humor and behind the fun, the book has an odd dimension that suggests some things that are somewhat less whimsical.”

“Birnbach Defines and Undermines the World of ‘True Prep’” was written by a junior at the Harvard daily paper, James K. McAuley; it is unlikely he is fond of “preppies” real, or literary:

“Naturally, there is never an explanation of why prep culture is something worth glorifying or even a subject worthy of two whole books.”

“It just so happens that almost anyone can assimilate into our world of prepdom,” Birnbach says with regard to the subject of preppy Muslims. But, after 234 pages, one has to wonder: why would anyone want to?”

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Spencer Baily at the Book Beast is essentially positive in his look at the new book.

“Birnbach and Kidd’s book proves that there’s a lot about preppies that you probably never knew, nor did I, despite my own preppy background—boarding school, a good beat-up pair of Sperry top-siders, and, well, did you notice my name? To the contrary, I discovered a culture far more widespread—and diverse—than I ever imagined. In the 21st century, prepsterdom is pervasive.”

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Many articles have used a question and answer format, including Allan Peppard’s story in the Dallas Morning News:

“What has the digital age done to the foundation of preppydom?

Rocked it to its core. One thing that defines a preppy is our very primal need for privacy and the digital age has disemboweled that. Privacy is fundamental. Having money was never the goal of life. The goal of life was having fun, having friends and outsmarting the hangover.”

Mr. Peppard notes the challenges of following up on a classic:

“Duplicating a cultural phenomenon is Sisyphean work, but Birnbach is on her way back up the hill…”

Elizabeth Wellington’s story in the Philadelphia Inquirer offers a positive critique in addition to her interview with Ms. Birnbach:

“Certainly 30 years has not been enough time to break through the members-only barriers of some preppy pastimes (still sacred are private school, a second home on the beach, even the three-martini happy hour), but the door to prep fashion is now open to the masses. What once were elitist department store-only brands – Lacoste, Coach, and Lilly Pulitzer – now have their own mall stores (not to mention their own Facebook and Twitter pages). And anyone can masquerade as a preppy, thanks to H&M and Wal-Mart, the modern-day go-to stores for polo-style shirts and khakis.

So much for exclusivity.”

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A substantial amount of verbiage is devoted to the way the prep world has changed since TOPH (The Official Preppy Handbook) was published 30 years ago. (Eek!)  Ms. Wellington posed a number of questions to the author, including one on a topic covered in many interviews:

“How has hip-hop influenced preppy, and how has preppy influenced hip-hop?

Hip-hop borrowed this aesthetic in a big way. They went big and bullish with preppy. It was preppy with a twist. . . What happened is it got to be too much. The logos were too big. Tommy Hilfiger had to ratchet it back a bit because he found it corrupted his mission.”

The hip-hop topic also comes up in the Dartmouth Independent story:

“There is a classic prep style associated with Dartmouth and other Ivy League colleges. I’ve noticed, however, that the hipster look has been trickling in lately. Some have joked that hipsters, rather than being true counter-culturalists, are actually ironic preps.

It’s funny―I’ve never heard him say it, but I have a son who I think is a hipster, or at least he thinks he’s a hipster.”

To see the rest of Ms. Birnbach’s answer to this question, just click here.

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Sarah Boslaugh writes in Playback St. Louis:

“True Prep is dutiful where The Official Preppy Handbook was cheeky and seems more interested in promoting the virtues of prep-dom than taking a satirical look at its foibles.”

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A Continuous Lean

The über-cool Michael Williams at A Continuous Lean was pleasantly surprised by the book:

“When I first learned of the new book I instinctively cringed. Not to be pessimistic, but I just couldn’t see how anything could be as good as the original.

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Though there are a few style related things in the book that I cannot endorse (which will go unnamed here), I have to say that after reading it with the mindset that the book is not meant to be a “part II,” (it is designed to complement the original) I really liked it. I also must admit that I was wrong about Lisa and True Prep. It is a worthy read and money well spent.

Clearly it is a mixed bag among the professional writers, just as it is with the preppy blog world.

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Many retailers are not having the much-improved 4th quarter sales they hoped for, and that means prices are dropping, promotional efforts are underway and discounts abound. We leave you with a sampling of several Sales & Savings Opportunities.

• Neiman Marcus is doing First Call.

Neiman Marcus

• And Neiman’s Last Call is taking 30% a broad range of products.

• Saks has its ‘Sneak Peek’ sale underway. (Perhaps we’re just thick, it looks very much like a regular sale to us.)

Saks Fifth Avenus

• Ever-more-promotional J. Crew is touting its Holiday Sale. (We’re unsure what holiday is being celebrated.)

J. Crew

• And Talbots is offering an additional 25% off all sale items.

We sign off with a wish and the hope that our military veterans will receive special goodness tomorrow, and every day.