“Subverting a Preppy Standby” & “Preppy Twists”

Hello-Hello, happy middle of the week to all of our treasured readers.

Here at the Prepatorium we like to engage in a rather quaint practice: every morning we read the paper. As in real newsprint on real paper. One of the papers we read is the Wall Street Journal, and they have had some interesting features of late talking about men’s fashion. More specifically, what some consider preppy styles.

Saturday’s paper had a nifty article on a topic near and dear to many a prep’s heart: embroidered critters or other patterns on clothing and accessories.  The article is titled “Fresh Threads” with a subhead that reads: “Men’s labels are subverting a preppy standby—the embroidered motif—to create some of this season’s cleverest clothes.” From the story:

FOR A FEW YEARS NOW, menswear designers have been tapping the well of classic prep, and this spring, labels like Thom Browne, Band of Outsiders, Shipley & Halmos and Asos are exploring its quirkiest reaches. They’ve traveled sartorially to Greenwich, Long Island or Nantucket, where tiny embroidered anchors, whales, lobsters and the like have decorated men’s shirts and shorts for generations.

Below we show two of the illustrations from the story. On the left is a Thom Browne jacket with the standard whale (unless I am missing something), on the right, quotation mark chinos from Band of Outsiders.

Carven/Thom Browne Wall Street Journal

From the piece by John Ortved:

“The things about classic American preppy clothes, whether they be chinos or pants with a bunch of flags embroidered on them, is that they’re very easy with a lot of personality,” said Band of Outsiders designer Scott Sternberg, whose witty take on the embroidery tradition this season includes pants and shirts covered with fat little red and blue quotation marks.

Another illustration from the article, Castaway Clothing’s Cisco Shorts.

Castaway Clothing/Wall Street Journal

The foaming beer mug seems relatively harmless, not especially subversive. I went to Castaway’s site to shop for research purposes, here are a few more of the images they embroider on apparel.

Castaway Clothing

I don’t know about you, but the iconography doesn’t bother me in the slightest. The bow tie on seersucker really caught my eye.

Back to the story:

Trousers featuring a more outlandish, all-over embroidery appeared as part of post-WWII East Coast country club culture—which took the symbols of leisure-class exclusivity and multiplied them for a distinctly American notion of casual wear. The martini glasses and whales embroidered on Nantucket reds and seersucker shorts followed.

The next item has a creature we’re used to seeing on our clothing, here we show Dunhill’s Lobster Embroidered Woven Silk Tie. The difference between our whales and the Dunhill whale? I’m used to them being on cotton, not silk.

Mr. Porter/Wall Street Journal

Back to the story:

Trousers featuring a more outlandish, all-over embroidery appeared as part of post-WWII East Coast country club culture—which took the symbols of leisure-class exclusivity and multiplied them for a distinctly American notion of casual wear. The martini glasses and whales embroidered on Nantucket reds and seersucker shorts followed. Now, those miniature designs are decorating everything from canvas backpacks and Vans sneakers to windbreakers.

Another illustration shows a Shipley & Halmos jacket and slacks adorned with a tiny artist at his easel.

The Wall Street Journal/Shipley & Halmos

I like the painter-he may not technically be ‘preppy,’ but the little artist doesn’t strike me as subversive. (Full disclosure: I’ve been a Shipley & Halmos fan for quite a while, they do an awful lot of things very well.) However, the company’s product description for a sweater seems a little harsh.

Don’t worry, you won’t see S&H embroidering alligators or dogs or palm trees all over a bright pink sweater. Instead, pull on this cotton blend crew neck with artist embroidery. More cool, less annoying.

Harrumph. There’s no need to get testy about the style.

One of the more intriguing items was this pair of Vans, I had to ask The Consort what the embroidery actually depicted. His answer: “feathers”.

The Wall Street Journal

The feathers aren’t all that appealing to me, but they do point out that this topic really typifies the “whatever floats one’s boat” credo.  Granted, it’s not exactly what J. Crew used to offer.

J. Crew Boys via ‘I Blame the Patriarchy’ Blog

But then, I don’t remember seeing this motif on anything growing up, and now it’s one of my favorites.

Castaway Clothing

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Next, a story that did raise eyebrows, it comes via the good folks at Art Info, and is titled Head to Toe: Preppy Twists for Men. Below, the graphic illustration accompanying the story. Ahem.

ArtInfo.com

From Nicholas Remsen’s story:

Preppy is as preppy does. But Nantucket reds, Wayfarers and seersuckers are a little played out, their sartorial wellspring pumped dry by endless GQ spreads and street-style shots of show-mongers in cuffed chinos and topsiders.

It seems Mr. Ortved and Mr. Remsen are of similar minds on the issue of ‘preppy’ being “overdone.” (In reality it’s never ‘over’ or ‘underdone’ for most of us, it’s just a constant. No need to think about it, grab something from the closet and go. End of story.)

One of the items featured in the Art Info piece is Thom Browne’s Whale Intarsia Sweater. Yes, the very same Mr. Browne mentioned above, he is frequently excoriated discussed in this space.

Mr.Porter

It’s darling, cute as can be, yet it makes me think Silly Season has come early, for that is a $1760 whale on cashmere.

Back to the story:

However, prep still has room for originality, thanks to designers like Thom Browne, with his hipster take on all things WASP, and Tomas Maier’s artful Italian classicism at Bottega Veneta. Here, our picks for skirting the country-club dress code — perfect for downtown-meets-uptown reunions with your Ivy buddies and springtime weekends in the country…

The cashmere whale isn’t the strangest product in the story, one can at least say, “Whales…preps…okay…”. Such mental meandering is impossible with this item: the Balmain Distressed Leather Biker Pants.

Balmain/Barney’s

“Springtime weekends in the country”….? Hello? It really seems time to quote Nancy Reagan and “Just say no.”

A Lilly Book Review, MOTH Gift Guide & Flash Giveaway

Hello-Hello! Or should that be Ho-Ho, Ho-Ho?! (Insert goofy grin.)

We’re back with a few tidbits today, the first: “Greetings From Lilly Land,” a lengthy review of the new Lilly Pulitzer book that ran in the Wall Street Journal last Friday.

Lilly Land is as much an attitude as a selection of here’s and there’s—Nantucket, Bryn Mawr, La Jolla, Grosse Pointe, Scottsdale, Greenwich, Short Hills, Far Hills—anywhere that rich women want to dress as if they have imaginations, as if they are “interesting,” to use the word the way some women do, as the opposite of “mousy.”

A quick refresher for anyone who may not be familiar with the recently published book, the official title is “Lilly: Palm Beach, Tropical Glamour, and the Birth of a Fashion Legend,” written by Kathryn Livingston.

Barnes & Noble

Henry Allen penned the review, he is a Pulitzer Prize winner for criticism and knows the world of which he writes:

To my surprise, I learned that I kind of like her. Surprise because I grew up with my nose pressed to the window of Lilly Land, but I was looking out, not in, seeking freedom from Connecticut cocktail hours, rich people complaining that they were broke (“totally stoners”), mixed doubles in tennis, and porch parties where women wore hair pulled back as tight as the silk on Christmas-tree balls. Once in a while a man would wear a necktie as a belt, a Brooks Brothers buccaneer.

Mr. Allen diplomatically references the lack of Lilly’s involvement with the book, “There’s no sign that Ms. Pulitzer sat for an interview with Ms. Livingston.” Another portion of the review, this portion talking about Lilly customers and readers:

They should be warned that it gives short shrift to Lilly Pulitzer herself. Is the problem that she is not all that interesting? What they’ll get instead is a book that’s half society history—28 pages that take Miss Porter’s School back to 1843, 21 pages on the history of Palm Beach, and 53 pages taking the McKims, Pulitzers, Phippses, Guests, Carnegies and so on back to the 18th century.

Yours truly has yet to read the book, but I very much enjoyed the review. Click here to read it in its entirety, it’s well worth the short investment of time.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Today’s other topic, we offer a few gift ideas for the MOTH (Man Of The House) at your Palace.

We show (from upper left):

• The Big New Yorker Book of Dogs at Bas Bleu, $45
• 2 pair Men’s Wool-bend Ragg Wool Socks at LL Bean, $18.95
• Katahdin Iron Works Insulated Sweatshirt at LL Bean, $89.99
• Stormy Kromer Original Flexible Fit Cap at Stormy Kromer, $39.99 (Consort Recommended)
• Swedish Cordura Dipped Travel Kit at Jack Spade, $165
• Mini Camp Lantern at LL Bean, $24.95
• Wicked Good Moc Boot Two Slippers at LL Bean, $79
• Daniel Boone Bracelet at Kiel James Patrick, $58
• Wool ‘Kevin’ Pant at J. McLaughlin, $185
• Wool Blanket in Gordon Dress Tartan at Sid Mashburn, $145
• Christmas Themed Belt at J. McLaughlin , $48
• Custom Grosgrain Key Fob at the Preppy Princess, $6
• Jonathan Adler Thermal Travel Mug with Silicone Sleeve at the Preppy Princess, $14

If helpful, all of the links up above go directly to the product and they all appear to be in stock. One item that didn’t quite fit in the Polyvore montage, another Consort suggestion, a Screwdriver Set at MOMA that he has, it has come in handy on more than one occasion.

MOMA

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Our final offering today: a flash giveaway. (Is that even a term…?) At any rate, we just got these in yesterday and I love them.

Sloane Ranger at PreppyPrincess.com

What better stocking stuffer than… stockings? Socks actually, knee socks from Sloane Ranger.  Available in Scottie Dogs, Nautical Anchors, Whales and Owls, these are really cute as can be and $12. (Let us know if you would like them gift wrapped for no additional charge.)

Pop over to the shop and peek at our Sloane Ranger collection, then come back and leave a comment telling us what item you would most like to receive or give. We’ll take comments until midnight Thursday and pull a winner Friday morning,  with an announcement in Friday’s post.

Critters on Clothing, Can Eddie Bauer Come Back? And That Big Soap Opera Shocker

Hello-hello, welcome to another crazy day at The Prepatorium.

Business commitments mandate brevity today (it is turning into “one of those weeks”), so we jump right in with a story about something near and dear to many prep hearts, embroidered critters on everything from clothing to key fobs.

“Not all critters are created equal: Dogs and waterfowl are popular, but cats barely make it onto the radar — at least when it comes to creatures featured on the preppy clothes and accessories that seem synonymous with spring.

Below, ties from LL Bean, the blue is decorated with a deer and the moss green is adorned with a trout.

The story is by Samantha Critchell, it has run in a number of papers already; here is a link to the piece in the Fall River Herald News.

“You also can’t go wrong with a whale or crab; girls love their ponies and butterflies; and boys have a thing for sharks.”

LL Bean design director Jim Hauptman shares his expertise in the article:

“Brown and black bears, however, which would seem natural for an outdoorsy brand, are tough because the embroidery can only get down to a certain level of detail. “Bears end up looking like blobs,” Hauptman said. A panda is the exception to the bear rule because of its definitive coloring, he adds.”

Below, our custom Key Fobs showcase some of the themes discussed in the story. (Still one of life’s all-time great bargains at only $6.)

PreppyPrincess.com

Shep Murray from Vineyard Vines is also quoted in the story:

“Color can’t be underestimated, said Shep Murray. Brights draw in critter fans, while traditional colors, such as navy, khaki and white, suit those less adventurous.“We find if we put a fish — on khaki shorts with the simple outline of a navy fish — most guys will wear it. You can get those people a little less likely to wear a critter to wear it if you don’t color it so brightly,” he said, “but the guy who is a ‘total prep’ wants it pink and green.”

A pair of men’s Embroidered Whales Club shorts offered at VV.

Mr. Murry talks about the company’s new Kentucky Derby collection in the story, explaining customers will be seeing a lot of horses this spring. Below, a belt from that collection.

Brooks Brothers is also offering whales this spring in the Clark pants, the Seersucker Capris are available for the ladies, embroidered with lemons.

Four-legged family members demand equal-opportunity when it comes to personal adornment:

Courtesy Tilly T. Bulldog

Tilly enjoys stepping out in her harness from the Princess; Scooter-the-Wonder-Cat was happy when we read her this next part of the story, sharing Mr. Murray’s opinion :

“He said he’s going to revisit cats at some point since he personally is a cat person, but, again, it’s the issue of shape and color.

We’re proud that our vendor for critter ribbon belts, key fobs and pet collar/leashes does an outstanding job. Below, just a few of the offerings demonstrating the attention to detail in the designs:

Can you tell a book by its critters, so to speak?

“Regionally, New Englanders are partial to golden retrievers, boats and bluefish, while Floridians prefer flamingoes, marlins, sailfish and palm trees, Ian Murray said. Midwesterners like anything that reminds them of a vacation, he added, so the beach motifs do well there.”

The article is very well done, to read it in its entirety, click here. We are curious, do you wear embroidered clothing or accessories? What’s your favorite critter?

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Next, a very quick update on what some refer to as a heritage brand, Eddie Bauer.  In today’s Women’s Wear Daily there is an interesting story about the company:

“Eddie Bauer invented the down-filled jacket, outfitted the first American ascent of Mount Everest and even patented the badminton shuttlecock — and the 91-year-old company that bears his name wants consumers to know that.”

An image from the spring catalog.

Eddie Bauer

Eddie Bauer faces a challenging environment, it is recovering from not just one, but two bankruptcies since 2003. Getting those of us once fond of the brand back into a store will be even more daunting.  For both The Consort and yours truly, this is a case of feeling like the brand left us, we didn’t leave the brand.

Below, a look at one of the newly reformatted stores.

Courtesy Eddie Bauer via WWD.com

Reclaiming lost customers while also growing new fans is a key part of the company’s strategy moving forward.

Courtesy Eddie Bauer via WWD.com

It is unlikely we will go out of our way to shop at Bauer, but knowing how hard the company is working at re-invigorating the brand, we may peek inside a store.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

We leave you with a bombshell.  In fact, a personal admonishment to TQM: please seat thyself before reading further, lest you tip over from the shock.

Are we ready?

ABC cancels ‘All My Children’ and ‘One Life to Live,’ replaces soaps with lifestyle shows

Or, as our neighbor to the north put it

ABC Cancels Soap Operas, Hates Us All

The headline immediately above is from Macleans, here is more from that story:

“Okay, the news that ABC is canceling One Life To Live and All My Children is not a stunning surprise. It’s been a nearly-confirmed rumour for a few weeks. But look what they’re replacing them with:

ABC will debut two new daytime programs this fall and winter: “The Chew,” a program about food news and trends, and “The Revolution,” about health and lifestyle transformations.

That’s just cold.”

From TMZ:

Via TMZ.com

One Life to Live has been on the air 43 years, All My Children for 41 years.

ABC

Good bye Erica. Goodbye Pine Valley.

Sniff.

Sperry Named Brand of the Year, Nautical Gifts, Sales & Savings

Hello-Hello, and Happy Friday! We are struggling to accept the fact that Christmas is one. week. away. Oneweekfromtodayomgwhatevershallwedo????  There. Enough hysteria; we solider on.

We have a hodge-podge today, including some last-minute gift ideas. Before we do anything else, we want to acknowledge Sperry Top-Sider, named Brand of the Year by Footwear News.

We’ve made no secret of our love for Sperry, especially some of their recent offerings, like the women’s Print Bahama.

Sperry Top-sider Bahama

As the editor wrote in naming Sperry:

“And while Sperry Top-Sider has owned the nautical category for a long time, clever updating and interesting collaborations put the brand ahead of the fleet in a tough year.”

Not all of the firm’s offerings are for us. The Women’s Abacos look uber-snuggly, but are clearly much-too-hip for TP.

Sperry shares the award with Sam Edelman.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

We begin our nautical gifts section with Jonathan Adler’s Whale Ornament, still available on the designer’s site. Crafted in unglazed porcelain this treasure comes complete with an elegant little box just ideal for gifting.

Jonathan Adler

We like the alternative use for the whale described on the Adler site:

“Decorating tip: break off the metal hanging loop and these little guys are fab figurines sure to dazzle any tablescape or bookshelf.”

The ornament is not the only whale swimming on the Adler sea. How cute is the Salt & Pepper set?

Jonathan Adler

Mr. Adler definitely has a flair for the nautical, his Anchor Rug is something we are rather fond of here at the Prepatorium.

Jonathan Adler

This makes us think of the one and only Nautical by Nature, who has done a marvelous series of posts on nautically inclined gift ideas; they really are must-reads. (You haven’t seen adorable until you see the sailboat mobile she featured.)

We have always loved this designer’s work, his whimsical approach to design matched with the clean, unfussy lines seen throughout much of his work are very appealing. That is why we are just tickled to announce we shall be carrying his new line of stationery and gifts!

We are very excited about this one; if you would like to be on our Jonathan Adler mailing list, just click here and scroll down to see the mailing lists on the lower righthand side of the page.

Back to the nautical gift scene, the Brendan Set of two onesies looks precious, for a little one, we adore the nautical striping and sailor collars.

We found the set at ChicNautic, where there is a nicely curated offering of nautically themed goods. The Anchor Sweater at Bella Bliss is darling, available in sizes 12 months to 12 years.

Bella Bliss

Also from Bella, the Baby Whale Cardigan in three different colorways.

Bella Bliss

If that doesn’t send the Cute-o-Meter into the red zone, we don’t know what will. A more reasonable alternative perhaps, the Avery & Addison Whale bodysuit at Targét.

Le Boutique Targét

St. James Boutique is always a good stop; the retailer carries a broad variety of merchandise, all of it top quality.  Their La Vellette knit jacket is timeless, and the Embrun Parka a workhorse.

They also have some darling stuffed animals for the Young Master and Miss of the House.  We love the Plush Lobster for kids, along with the stuffed Crab.

The company’s slickers are attractive but also built for heavy duty; the Anita in pink is our favorite, but the Marie is also outstanding.

St. James is known for their striped tees. The Ouessant is on the left, and on the right we show the Chalut.

If one doesn’t mind beading on their tee (ahem) the Polo Ralph Lauren Otho Long Sleeve top might work.

Polo Ralph Lauren at Bloomingdale's

The shirt also comes in navy blue and is currently reduced by 40% at Bloomies.

The Anchor Earrings by Helen Yarmak are seen in Elle’s Naughty Nautical feature, something we didn’t feel we needed to share in its entirety.

The good folks at Cape Cod Jewelers offer this elegant bracelet.

Cape Cod Jewelers

The man on your list might appreciate the Jack Spade Nautical Billfold.

Jack Spade

This also comes in a rich chocolate brown if the lighter color shown above isn’t appealing.

Finally, the Nautical Towels at Preston’s are a fun way to bring a touch of the sea indoors.

Preston's

May all of your shopping be smooth sailing.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Now we move on, there are Sales & Savings opportunities to share. Brooks Brothers is promoting up to 60% off original prices in their Clearance Sale; this includes some Black Fleece for Women and Men’s Black Fleece as well.  We like the Madras Bow Tie.

The colors on the right make it ideal for a U of M Wolverine fan.

J. Crew is doing an online only Extra 25% off sale, that additional discount is applicable only to sale merchandise.  Use promo code EXTRA25 at checkout to receive the savings.

J. Crew

Hypothetically this ends Sunday night (the 20th) at midnight.

The Tory Burch Sale offers a healthy selection of products. We like the Pier jacket (L) and the Oriel cardigan (R).

The Neiman Marcus online only Last Call clearance offers an additional 30% off sale prices.

And Barney’s is in sync, taking an additional 33% reduction in price for their fall sale items. This covers some items in the Home Department, including several of the Fred Red pillows; from left we show Kaleidostripe, Modern Maze, and the Double X in chocolate.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++

For today’s Pretty in Pink (and Green) we share the Monogrammed Onesie and Burp Cloth Set at Bella Due.

Bella Due

Sweet as can be in pink and green stitching complementing the bright pink and green ribbon. (Although we wonder if that bow on the onesie might irritate a little one?)

With this we send everyone wishes for a wonderful weekend, may it be merry and bright!

Those Mad Men Are At It Again, & Yale as the ‘Gay Ivy’?

Happy Friday everyone, this has seemed like a long week, and yet we have a bit of an empty feeling as we ask ourselves, “Ummm, exactly what did you accomplish this week Missy? Hhmmm?” We’re sure we managed to provide some tangible benefits in exchange for the privilege of taking up airspace here on the Preppy Planet, we’re just not able to recall immediately what those benefits were.

Well, that’s more-than-enough of a dreary detour, let’s move on to something with no redeeming values whatsoever, a look at the news.

We start with happy news about our absolute favorite television program:

Courtesy amc-tv

Mad Men has received multiple Emmy nominations: 16 in total.  Once again Jon Hamm (aka Don Draper) draws a nomination as Best Actor in a drama, and costar John Slattery is nominated as Best Supporting Actor; he plays Roger Sterling, one of the founders of 1960’s advertising agency Sterling Cooper.

USA Today had a great Q&A with Mr. Slattery on the eve of last year’s Emmy ceremony, click here. Below, a photo of both men at last year’s Emmy gala; Mr. Slattery is on the left.

PHOTO: Mike Blake/Reuters (9.21.08)

Actress Elisabeth Moss is nominated for her role as Peggy, and the show itself garnered another Best Dramatic series nod; it was the big winner in this category last year. Below we see Ms. Moss between Mr. Slattery and Mr. Hamm. (Oh, to be a sandwich between those two….)

Courtesy mac-tv

Mad Men Season 3 premieres Sunday, August 16 at 10pm EDT.  You know where we’ll be…. how about you?

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Now we display our ignorance for all to see and comment upon. We were well aware Tiffany was carrying handbags…

Courtesy Tiffany & Co., (No Longer Available)

The handbag was referred to here at the Palace as the Tiffany Tote (we chatted about it here and here), yet somehow TP missed the news that Cartier was doing bags as well.

Courtesy Bag That Style

And from the looks of the photo of Gossip Girl star Blake Lively, it would seem this is old (moldy old) news! Are we just hopelessly out of touch?

But we go back to Tiffany for a quick moment: has everyone seen the new Jean Schlumberger enamel bracelet collection?

Courtesy Tiffany

Very, very pretty, IOHO.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Next we have the growing discussion about Yale’s position as the “Gay Ivy”.  This is not a new phenomenon, but the current conversation is due in part to this month’s issue of the YAM, or Yale Alumni Magazine.

Courtesy Yale Alumni Magazine

Again, not anything really new other than its front page status in the YAM; however, the story by the magazine’s editors’ and accompanying profiles offer insight into the history and veracity of such an appellation.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

In other news that shall have no impact on our life whatsoever that somehow seemed moderately interesting nonetheless, WWD reports popular retailer Forever 21 will soon be adding home and beauty lines to their merchandise mix.

PHOTO: Shanna Ravindra

The company will be rolling out these products in their bigger stores, including the 15 former Mervyn’s store they purchased.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

And a tidbit about a one-time Princess favorite, news that a buyer has been secured for bankrupt retailer Eddie Bauer.  The buyer plans to keep most of the existing 300 stores open, and also says Eddie Bauer gift cards will be honored. That at least, is good news.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

We close with one of the cutest stuffed animals we have ever seen: the Whale Big Mouth Fun from Baby Earth.

BabyEarth.com

With that darling image we say au revoir until next time, may your weekend be surorunded by summer splendor!