Tag Archives: Prada

Is Prep Dead? (More Importantly, How Did We Miss This?)

Hello-Hello, is everyone ready for a weekend?

We thought it was time for another True Prep update, the volume of media surrounding the book is significant, including multiple declarations that ‘prep is dead’; in at least one instance responsibility for this hypothetical occurrence is linked directly to the book.

We begin with this headline from a September NPR story:

We haven’t heard the entire NPR story, but did read what is posted online and were unable to decipher exactly how the book’s existence translated into a sign that prep was dead.  The NPR story does carry a lengthy quote from this story in The Atlantic:

As always, the Atlantic review is very well done, essentially positing that ‘prep’ has  been absorbed by a larger, international class.  From the piece by Benjamin Schwarz:

“Whereas OPH was crammed with fine-grained analysis— defining, say, the subtle distinctions between Brooks Brothers (mainstream), J. Press (old guard), and Paul Stuart (urbane)—True Prep’s analysis seems vague and flabby. Whereas OPH’s preppies belonged to a distinct and inward-looking subculture, the preppies of True Prep, defined largely by what they buy and wear, are in many ways indistinguishable from fancily educated professionals.”

The writer doesn’t fault the skill set of authors Lisa Birnbach and Chip Kidd, looking instead at the consumption habits of the era, particularly those of the conspicuous kind.

“Cracked heirlooms, threadbare antique rugs, sturdy L.L. Bean boots, duct-taped Blucher moccasins, and workhorse Volvo station wagons defined OPH’s aesthetic. True Prep’s preppies, armed with BlackBerrys and iPods, wear Verdura jewelry and Prada and vintage Gucci loafers, tote Goyard and Tory Burch bags, and adorn their desks with tchotchkes from Smythson (a firm whose success, Ian Jack notes in The Guardian, has been built “on selling baubles to the impressionable rich”).

It’s no secret we whined struggled with some of the brands featured in True Prep. (For Ms. Birnbach’s comments regarding the J. Crew metallic Top-siders at J. Crew, simply click here.) We have been vocal about the volume of J. Crew & Burberry products showcased in the book.  Frequent readers know the tragic truth: TP and The Consort are two boring, old-school preps.  Our style is basically no style.

However, we do take issue with this claim from a column in the Journal, the headline reads “Preppy Pitfall: All That Madras, Not Enough Effort.” It is the subhead that is irksome:

Did Lisa Birnbach’s original ‘Handbook’ drive people lazy?”

Eric Felten cites TOPH (The Official Preppy Handbook) as a factor.

“One simply mustn’t try too hard. A key principle of what Ms. Birnbach called the Preppy Value System was Effortlessness: “If life is a country club, then all functions should be free from strain.”

The notion that Ms. Birnbach is responsible for the work ethic of a generation is ludicrous.

“Unless you actually have a fat trust fund to underwrite your nonchalance, an aversion to effort is hardly a strategy for success. Which may explain some of our national woes.”

We like Ms. Birnbach; she is talented, witty and loads of fun, but while wielding significant influence, she is not quite so powerful as to be responsible for this:

“Over the last couple of decades we’ve seen the contempt for effort spread far beyond the original preppy demographic. Now it’s commonplace for middle-class kids to go to college and behave as though they are scions of the gentry—abjuring studies and indulging in the bottomless kegger that a recent book dubbed “The Five Year Party.”

Blaming These Challenging Times on any single author just doesn’t work for us.

Next on the review list, AOL’s Daily Finance offers this:

Bruce Watson’s story takes a more reasoned approach:

“…she attached a philosophical component to the look, explicitly wedding the preppy style to a hodgepodge of social values, including traditionalism, thrift, and brand loyalty. In Birnbach’s analysis, preppies buy Brooks Brothers and Orvis because these companies have been in business for over a hundred years and have proven reliability.”

As the monolithic 1980’s preppy culture has fractured into a variety of brands and styles, from Gossip Girl to hip-hop Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren to Vineyard Vines, it’s worth wondering if this explosion of prep may also signal its demise.”

Mr. Watson points to the efforts at updating the fashions offered by some of the stalwarts, like LL Bean’s Signature and Black Fleece at Brooks Brothers, a necessity if such establishments are to compete against trendier, “hipper” (ahem) offerings at retailers like J. Crew. Unfortunately the writer misses an important point in this portion of his story:
“In True Prep, however, conversation positively drips with references to the signs of wealth, as Birnbach instructs readers: “Your car wasn’t in the shop; your Mercedes was getting fixed. You didn’t wear shoes; you wore Manolos.”
The book isn’t instructing readers to converse in this fashion. To the contrary, this specific segment laments the way people speak these days, bemoaning the ostentation and name-dropping and label flashing.  Melanie Spencer’s story in the Austin Statesman illustrates this distinction with a quote from the author:
“”People are oft misbehaving and name-dropping and talking about money,” she says. “It is vulgar. It’s becoming normal. I’m here to help correct. Something as benign as ‘Sex in the City’ sort of sanctioned gross materialism. Instead of saying, ‘Oh, my shoes hurt,’ it’s, ‘My Manolos hurt.’ You are sending all kinds of messages. You can say ‘My car is in the shop.’ You don’t have to say, ‘My Jaguar is in the shop.’ It would be so refreshing for people to go back to those basics.”

We had to laugh aloud at this part of the story, it seems not everyone in Austin was fond of the prep aesthetic. (Gasp!)

“”Preppy fashion was the lowest point in the history of women’s attire,” says longtime Austinite, style and design writer and Austin Monthly Home editor Helen Thompson.”
Oops.  Hopefully Melanie, I Pick Pretty and other notable Austin denizens won’t tell Ms. Thompson next time we visit.
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Enough of the deep thinking, we have an eye-popping Pretty in Pink & Green to share:
The Argyle Pullover is available at Elegant Baby, and there is also a version in blues if looking for something a little more sedate.
With that, we are off to enjoy the weekend, and hope you are able to do the same!

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Filed under Gossip Girl, preppy, Preppy clothing & brands, Preppy Fashion, preppy lifestyle, True Prep & TOPH

Friday Fun: Royals Watch Alice, Mad Man in Vancouver

Hello-Hello and welcome to some Friday Fun!

We have all sorts of bits and bytes to share today, we begin with a peek at the party across the pond for Alice in Wonderland.  When they say ‘Royal World Premiere’ they do mean Royal.

Dave M. Benett/Getty

We loved the gown worn by Mia Wasikowska.

Even the fans were all dolled up.

Claire R Greenway/Getty Images for Disney

It is beginning to look like we may actually have to toddle on over to a theater to enjoy the film in its best light.

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Next on the agenda, given any opportunity to post photos of Don Draper we continue our tradition of updating readers on Mad Men stars; Jon Hamm is in Vancouver enjoying the Olympics.

Jamie Squire/Getty

Above he is seen at the US vs. Canada hockey game last weekend, having a bite of pizza with longtime girlfriend Jennifer Westveldt.

Bauer Griffin

We’re not clear which team he was pulling for.

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Next, a look at the latest collaborative collection from Louis Vuitton.

Courtesy Photo via StyleRumor.com

The limited edition line is called Cosmic Blossoms, done with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami. Some readers may recognize the artist’s name, this is one of many partnerships Mr. Murakami has done with Vuitton.

Courtesy photo via HighSnobiety.com

The advertising campaign features Daisy Lowe, with pieces in three rich shades that we adore. The bright pops of color look like Easter candy or ice cream sherbet.

Courtesy/StyleRumor.com

The Cosmic Blossom collection becomes available in Louis Vuitton stores beginning April 15.

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We also have a few more styles from New York Fashion Week we haven’t yet had time to share.

There is no way we could allow the Oscar de la Renta show to pass unnoticed, the man is genius.

There are many reasons we frequently refer to Mr. de la Renta as ‘the master’.  Among other things, the designer knows how to use color and texture.

He also knows how to make a woman look, and feel beautiful.

Lush, luxurious and lovely.

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Next, looks for a Lady:

Lady Gaga, that is.

The entertainer sought designs for her Monster Ball tour from both Prada and Armani; above are sketches for two styles from Armani.  Below we see the entertainer in her ‘Telephone’ video.

LadyGaga.com

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We do love a post by the folks at StyleFrizz, pointing out one of the hottest trends in wedding gowns:

Pockets.  More and more gowns are offering pockets.

The genesis of the StyleFrizz post is actually found in this post at the Austin Wedding Blog.

The J. Crew Genevieve silk radzimir gown also offers this handy helper (no pun intended).

J. Crew Genevieve

As does the very popular Alexa cotton Cady.

J. Crew Alexa

Many of Crew’s gown have pockets, a smart move on their part.

TP is hyper-sensitive to the issue, having wept more than a few tears of joy upon the occasion of her marriage to the Consort. If we’d only had pockets, sigh.

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We close with something provoking a little controversy:

Associated Press

You are looking at what’s left of the hair on speed skater Ryan Bradford’s head.  Evidently a small minority of people feel this is disrespectful to the American flag; as someone who might be considered hyper-sensitive to such things we disagree.  Another Team USA skater sort of tricked the athlete into the look; click here to see more about that.

On that note we say g’bye and share hopes everyone enjoys their weekend!

CREDITS:

Oscar de la Renta: George Chinsee/WWD

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Filed under Friday Fun, Prepalicious, Preppy clothing & brands, Preppy Fashion, Pretty in Pink, Winter Olympics 2010

Pink & Green Shoes that are TDF, Sales of a Preptastic Kind!

Hello-Hello and Happy Day!

We are once again beset by a malady known as spring fever, so let’s talk about some pink & green shoes, shall we?!

The first pair is the Gola Ignite flats, available at Zappos.

Gola Ignite! at Zappos.com

Gola Ignite at Zappos.com

Also at Zappos, these Bedhead Ballet Flats

Bedhead Ballet Flats at Zappos.com

Bedhead Ballet Flats at Zappos.com

Bluefly offers these patent ‘Heaven’ boatstitch loafers from Tod’s.

Tod's Loafer at Bluefly.com

Tod's Loafer at Bluefly.com

We must be candid dolls, the pink is looking a little neon for us….yes?  We just discovered the Betsyville Baylee Flat, available in several different colorways.

Betseyville Baylee

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Another strong point for the Baylee, its fiscally friendly price, $62 at Shoes.com.  There are many other pair from Betseyville with a similar look, all with the nautical little button. These are the Brinda Sandals in pink patent.

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And on the right in always classic black & white patent, the Blair sandals from Betseyville.

A Princess post on flats couldn’t possibly be complete without at least one pair from Bettye Mueller, like these Madras Frame flats, now almost 50% less than their original price at Endless.com

Bettye Mueller

Bettye Mueller

And then we have a classic, Prada’s petal patent cap-toe ballerina flats.

Prada

Prada

That’s it for now. (But you just know we’ll be back with more! They are irresistible!)

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We’re a little late to the party with this, but Bobbi Brown has an incredible offer on the website right now:

A 25% discount on any cosmetic is fairly unusual, let alone on the entire line!  But the offer ends tonight at midnight, so fly over there now if interested!

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Also, Sak’s is promoting their sale:

Saks.com

Saks.com

As is Banana Republic:

hp_promo

J. Crew is offering an Extra 20% off their Sale prices.  Use promo code EXTRA20 at checkout to receive the additional discount.

On that note, we now return you to your regularly scheduled programming.

(Silly Princess.)

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Filed under nautical, preppy, Preppy clothing & brands, Preppy Fashion, preppy lifestyle, Pretty in Pink, Sign of the Times

Jill Biden Inauguration Dress on its Way, Brooks Brothers Cuts Prices on Black Fleece

Hello-Hello and Happy Friday everyone!

In all candor, sometimes we wonder about this proclamation of happiness for ‘the weekend,’ when in reality we frequently work on the weekend.  Both daze days.  Yet from a psychological perspective, things are a tad more relaxed here at the Prepatorium, and unless we have functions, we dress in business casual.  So we do greet the approaching weekend with a bit of a boost for the spirit; we hope you face yours with this sense of an anticipatory smile for your heart as well.

Today we start with the Black Fleece standalone store, now open in the Village.

George Chinsee/WWD

PHOTO: George Chinsee/WWD

The new shop by Brooks Brothers features the full men’s and women’s collections created by TP’s favorite designer (ummm….not) Thom Browne.  We are now going to be completely crass in our discussion of things related to that nasty “M word,” and tell you that the bigger story IOHO is Black Fleece price points being lowered.  According to this column in WWD (Women’s Wear Daily):

“Prices for the Thom Browne-designed line have been dropped significantly — a men’s suit that formerly retailed for $2,700 can now be had for $1,900 and women’s prices have dropped in tandem — reflecting the “friendlier” exchange rate of the euro for the Italy-produced collection.

“There’s new pricing for spring,” revealed Claudio Del Vecchio, Brooks Bros.’ chief executive officer. “But we didn’t change the quality or the make of the men’s suits.”

We have been vocal in our fondness for several of looks in the current group, including the Navy Pinstripe separates.

Not all prices are changing: the men’s shirts and toes remain at $150 and higher. The Black Fleece collection is also being offered in an enhanced setting at the Brooks flagship on Madison Avenue, currently being refurbished.

George Chinsee/WWD

PHOTO: George Chinsee/WWD

Perhaps the best news in the story is that the company is not encountering the same wretched sales numbers as so many other retailers:

“We’re not a designer brand like Armani or Prada, we’re more of a family brand” with lower-than-luxury prices. “We feel we’re in the right place for when this is over. It’s a good time to be Brooks Bros.”

That comes from Claudio Del Vecchio, Brooks Brothers’ CEO.

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There is news today of another popular Inauguration look being made available to the masses.  The always brilliant Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan has the scoop at the Journal’s Heard on the Runway blog.  In her Thursday column Ms. Tan reports that Milly will re-introduce the dress worn by Dr. Jill Biden for the Inauguration and Luncheon.  Below, the dress is barely visible on the far left.

Harry Hamburg/Pool

PHOTO: Harry Hamburg/Pool

The Houndstooth Wool Dress is still available at Saks, with a broad range of sizes offered, at $360.

As this is one of TP’s favorite lines, we are ecstatic to learn price points are also dropping at Milly! According to Ms. Tan’s story, company founder Michelle Smith feels she had little choice in this area:

“… after major retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue slashed prices by as much as 70% to get consumers to spend.”

“It’s disappointing, it’s frustrating but, what can you do?” says Ms. Smith…”

We are not going to be disingenuous and pretend sadness at this action, for we do love our Milly!

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We have posted previously about the upcoming Alexander McQueen for Target Collection, most recently on Tuesday of this week, sharing a sneak peek at pieces from the line.  The line is receiving substantial buzz, not all of it laudatory.  Below, another look from the group, with thanks to the good folks at Nylon:

Courtesy Target via Nylon

Courtesy Target via Nylon

In this column yesterday for the Times, writer Eric Wilson asks “But How Will It Play in Tulsa?

“Tapping Mr. McQueen to design a collection seems a little odd even for Target, which has branded itself as a design maverick, given the times.”

Courtesy Target via Nylon

Courtesy Target via Nylon

Mr. Wilson goes on to say:

“The McQ clothes are on average more expensive, from $19.99 to $129.99, than Target’s prior fashion collaborations, and certainly not as cheerful as anything Isaac Mizrahi would have considered.”

Interesting points, indeed.  While the look is assuredly not for us, we say ‘good for the Boutique’ in reaching out to a different demo; we aren’t convinced the McQueen collection will be a strong seller, but hopefully we will be wrong on this front.

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We close with a “Pretty in Pink” for your perusal, another offering from the Lilly Pulitzer Stationery & Gift line due at the Princess next week.

Lilly Pulitzer at PreppyPrincess.com

Lilly Pulitzer at PreppyPrincess.com

Now if we could plant that in our Diet Coke (or other libation…heh-heh), our day would be infinitely improved!  The Drink Umbrellas are available for pre-ordering now!

On that cheery note, until next time!

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Filed under preppy, Preppy clothing & brands, Preppy Fashion, Sign of the Times

Is Luxury Dead? Lower Prices for J. Crew? Is 60% Off the New Black?

DISCLAIMER: The following report is rated M for Mature; it descends to new lows in its frequent and flagrant use of the M word (money) and it is intended only for adult readers.

MPAA

MPAA

Everywhere one looks there are stories about “the death of luxury.”

JP Morgan recently called upscale retailer Saks Fifth Avenue “the Gucci Blue Light Special,” referencing the deep discounts they have taken this fall. Below, the company’s sale page on their website.

Saks Fifth Avenue

Saks Fifth Avenue

The International Herald Tribune (as well as the NYT) ran a story Monday, “Luxe is losing its edge,” with the focus on struggles facing high-end jeweler Bulgari.

Courtesy Bulgari

Courtesy Bulgari

The story also talks about stores cutting back on expansion plans, like Burberry, Cartier, Saks and others.

The “Sale” notices do continue to pour in via both email and standard mail, many from establishments one would never associate with such aggressive price cuts, like this one from Barneys:

Barneys New York

Barneys New York

Previously, *if* for some insane reason stores felt forced to discount at this level, they hoped and prayed it would not negatively impact their image as purveyors of luxury goods.

We cannot remember the last time (if ever) we saw Burberry Prorsum selling for 60% off their original price, as is the case with the Empire Cocoon Coat.

Burberry Prorsum Cocoon Coat

Burberry Prorsum Cocoon Coat

Not everything at Burberry is marked down at that level; this children’s Argyle Sweater is “only 30% off.”

Burberry

Burberry

The same is true for the children’s Wool Duffel Coat:

Burberry

Burberry

There is even a post at Vivre Magazine online asking if “60% Off is the New Black?” The story raises the question that TP considers the elephant in the room for retailers:

“As stores slash and cut their prices just to hear the cash registers ring, you wonder if consumers will ever want to pay for full price for anything ever again. When this is all over, will any customer actually walk into ANY store and still look at Prada wallets and other designer handbags that used to be kept behind glass and are currently on tables and bins, the same way again?”

The Times ran a story in November “In Hard Times, No More Fancy Pants,” quoting one of our favorite authors:

“The era of conspicuous consumption, at least for the foreseeable future, has come to a close,” said Paco Underhill, the author of “Why We Buy,” which explores the science of retail.”

In yesterday’s WWD a story made the case that “Flaunting Days Are Over as Consumers Cut Back.

The story by Sharon Edelson does feature an amazing Graff necklace that we simply had to share:

Graff Courtesy Photo

Graff Courtesy Photo

The piece is a little over the top in our estimation (this is where Great Aunt Molly would lower her voice and whisper ‘New money sweetie… you know what I mean.”).  Actually, the story channels GAM in a remarkable fashion:

“Logos are becoming less important, said Pedraza, noting that customers are starting to ask for unmarked brands. “People want very understated products,” he said. “They want to consume privately.”

“While people with new money tend to define themselves by their labels and what they spend, the rules are changing. People want to buy more classic luxury at better prices. They don’t want to be the people who are showing off.”

For many readers this is not exactly breaking news. How are you reacting? Are you simply purchasing necessities and/or discretionary items as desired, or waiting for markdowns? Or perhaps a mix of both…?

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While not considered a luxury retailer, J. Crew has also been in the news.  As reported on the WSJ Holiday Sales blog, J. Crew CEO Mickey Drexler said:

“J. Crew is trying to adapt, he said, by making small investments in new concepts, implementing a hiring freeze… looking at lowering opening price points for its crewcuts kids line.

Did everyone notice the hiring freeze? We almost missed it upon reading about Crewcut prices, but it was noted in a story on GlobeSt, a real estate website:

“J. Crew has initiated a company-wide hiring freeze Drexler revealed, even during the holiday season… If someone wants to hire someone, someone’s got to leave,” Drexler said.”

Regular readers will remember Mr. Drexler’s comments shared in this post about lowering price points on some adult merchandise. Speaking about the overall climate for retailers:

“I’ve never seen anything like this in my life…”

“Right now we’re all a little afraid,” he said. “If there’s anyone getting up in the morning and not saying ‘uh oh,’ then I’d like some of that medication.”

If Mr. Drexler locates a source for those meds we hope he brings enough for the rest of the class.  If not, we fear we shall be forced to make do with a little Prozac latte.

Indeed.

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Filed under Argyle, Logos, preppy, Preppy clothing & brands, Preppy Fashion