Mixed Signals on Designer Logos & Those Snooki Slippers

Hello-Hello, welcome to a fab Wednesday here at the Prepatorium.

Today we take a look at children’s’ fashions, with an emphasis on the logofication issue. A number of publications have suggested These Challenging Times are fostering less conspicuous consumption, including smaller, fewer, and more discreet use of logos, particularly for luxury labels.  This first picture may help explain why we’re confused.   Above we share an image from Burberry’s online store in the Girls’ apparel category, but similar use of the company’s signature check motif is abundant throughout the site.  These items do not seem to fit in the smaller and discreet categories.

The retailer still offers plenty of adult merchandise with its name and/or logo loud and proud, below we show the Wool Crewneck Sweater for women, and on the right, a Men’s Lightweight Hoody.

Bloomberg recently did a story about luxury labels turning their attention to other revenue streams, including children’s wear; the story is titled Burberry $750 Kids’ Trench Coats Turn Playgrounds to Runways.

“Celebrity culture and status-seeking are driving the growth, according to Fflur Roberts, Euromonitor’s luxury-goods research manager.

Suri Cruise, the 4-year-old daughter of actors Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes, has been photographed wearing a Burberry fur- trimmed parka and beige velveteen coat lined with the brand’s signature plaid.”

To be fair, the iconic motif is seen very little on higher end Burberry London pieces, it is almost invisible in the Prorsum line. It is featured primarily on the lower end fashions and accessories targeted at the aspirational shopper.

The continued logo placement is not limited to Burberry.  Your little ones’ feet seem to be a popular spot for advertising, below left, the D&G Infant Sneakers, the Gucci Baby Sneakers are on the right.

We all know how yours truly feels about the logo on the left, adorning a pair of Children’s Sneakers, not to mention the all-over play it receives on the Baby Bal-Harbor Slip Ons.

More from the Bloomberg story:

“…. dressing their kids in designer gear is a guilt-free way for fashion-focused parents to indulge their own penchant for following trends, Roberts said. “It makes them feel good,” she said.

“Parents increasingly see their children as a reflection of themselves so they want to make sure they look good and are in the latest things,” said Sarah Peters, senior retail analyst at Verdict Research, a part of the Datamonitor Group.”

Calvin Klein ensures everyone will know where Little Bitsy’s togs came from.

We previously mentioned that Fendi is launching a children’s line in the spring, on the left we see children in the upcoming collection; we are hopeful pieces won’t be like these Baby Zucca Booties.

The Times ran a story on Monday about the lucrative returns in fashion for little ones, Designer Labels Go Pint Size.

“Gucci, Fendi and Stella McCartney are among the latest designers to add luxury children’s collections to their company’s stable, a small step for high-end fashion but among the first signs of growth since the recession.”

A few items from the soon-to-launch collection from Ms. McCartney.

The Stella McCartney pieces do not disappoint, they are cute as can be, eminently wearable, and sans logos.  Amen.  When it comes to the children’s line, buzz on Planet Fashion is all about the Gucci Kids advertising:  the word is that the campaign features Jennifer Lopez and her 2-year-old twins.  From the Women’s Wear Daily story, “Gucci Gucci Goo“:

“The images feature a sun-kissed Lopez and her two-year-old twins decked out in Gucci clothes and accessories, including sunglasses, romping on the beach.”

Apparently the ads were almost never shot, according to this story:

“Jennifer Lopez’s cute new advertisement for fashion house Gucci with her twin babies almost never happened – because her husband Marc Anthony refused to turn the spotlight on their children.

The singer/actress reveals she struggled to persuade Anthony to agree to let their kids Max and Emme join their superstar mum and model in the photo spread, admitting he only relented because it was all for children’s charity UNICEF.”

Via MumbaFashion

We haven’t seen enough of the new Gucci collection to know if children are at risk of Logophobia or not, but be assured we will not drop our guard, vigilance is our watchword. (Heh,heh,heh.)

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There is good news and bad news about two of our AntiPrep Wall of Shame member. First, the good: JWOWW’s clothing line is apparently not going to be created; Jezebel has more:

“Sad news for those who were eagerly awaiting our Boob Slings in the mail: JWOWW’s clothing line will not go into production, due to a trademark dispute.”

But now the bad: Snooki-branded products are now hitting the marketplace.

Jason Merritt/Getty Images & Happy Feet

The folks at Happy Feet say the first 10,000 slippers ordered should be delivered in time for the holidaze. Can a Snooki Snuggie be far behind? (Surely we aren’t the first people to consider this possibility…?)

On that tragic image we say adieu until next time!

Burberry’s Biker Looks for Next Spring, Goodbye to a Prep Favorite

Hello-Hello, and welcome to a wonderful Monday here at the Prepatorium.

Why is it such a fab day? Because The Consort went we dispatched the IT department to retrieve The Consort’s computer; it is home again, back in its proper place and humming away.  Even happier? One tubby big-boned bulldog.

WRONGLY ACCUSED!

Silly Tilly is no longer living under a cloud of suspicion, vindicated after being wrongly accused of somehow breaking the computer.

And we’re also happy campers, back after a refreshing little trip away from the Palace. We were blessed to spend time with relatives at their idyllic ‘cabin’ nestled away in a serene setting here in The Great Midwest.  Waited on hand and foot, we blissed out with a panoply of sunshine, college football and delicious meals.

Now, some might feel the exterior decor detracted from things.

HEAVEN

But we like to think of ourselves as broad thinkers, entirely capable of supporting the scarlet and gray. For a day. (Heh, heh, heh.)

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Back to bloggy business, prior to the great mac meltdown we spoke about sharing some of Burberry’s spring 2011 styles from London Fashion Week. Hopefully the topic doesn’t strike you as a moldy oldie, as we begin with a look at some of the faces seated in the Front Row. (Indeed, some outlets now capitalize this moniker.)

Alastair Grant/AP

You may recognize some or all of the celebrities: Sarah Jessica Parker, Alexa Chung, Serena Williams, Britain’s Andy Murray.  Below we see Anna Wintour and another photo of Ms. Williams.

Let’s get to the actual accessories and apparel.

Referred to by many trade publications as Biker Chic, next spring’s collection featured lots of leather, snakeskin, super high heels and studs.

Handbags for next spring.

From WWD’s story on the collection:

“Christopher Bailey roared into new territory with an homage to motorcycle gear in its most luxe iteration. Burberry’s chief creative officer swapped fall’s shearling aviator jackets and sharp, buttoned-up military coats for a tougher, tighter-fitting silhouette in the stylish spirit of James Dean.”

Here is a closer look at one of the styles.

Catwalking via Daily Mail

A tighter shot shows the quilting in the pants, and how high the heels really are.

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Another look at some of the handbags.

Giovanni Gionanni/WWD

There were bright pops of color amid the black, deep navy and brown.

But the majority of styles included tougher, dark looks.

More from the WWD review (Women’s Wear Daily, subscription required):

“And while this was one turbo-powered collection, Bailey skidded, at times, into dangerous territory. The biker jackets paved with spikes and studs were overwrought, and there was nothing elegant or fresh about those flashes of python on trousers, dresses, and jackets.”

Sadly, the heels proved to be too high for one model on the runway.

Via The Cut

In an unusual move, but one that could become the norm, Burberry is offering some of the Spring 2011 coats and bags for sale now. As most treasured readers know, the span of time between runway show and actual purchasing possibilities is usually months, not days.

Burberry

A few notes on the early selling: these orders will not be shipped for seven weeks, and the opportunity to purchase the spring pieces ends tomorrow night, the 28th.

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We have news on the Lilly Pulitzer Fall Warehouse Sale, the dates have been announced as Nov. 19 (7a-8p) and Nov. 20 (8a-4p) the Valley Forge Convention Center. We want to publicly thank the ladies running the Re-Lilly Facebook group for the info. BTW, this group is definitely the place to be if thinking about re-purposing any of your Lilly items, from clothing to stationery to bedding, or finding info on pattern names, inquiring about sizing on specific items, etc.

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A sad piece of news today, CK Bradley is closing.

CK Bradley

This is a Princess fave, an outstanding company started by Camilla Bradley when she was a student at Trinity, then grown into into a solid prep favorite with stores in the city and Newport. The New York store closed last year, and the Newport store will also be closing in the next month.  It’s possible we’ll be able to enjoy the designer’s talents in the future, Summer is a Verb mentions that Ms. Bradley is looking at doing a ski line.

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We leave you with a Pretty in Pink and Green.

Via Flirtbuttons on Etsy

The Whale Pendant is handmade by Flirtbuttons.

On that perky image, we say Thank You for all of your patience with our technology challenges, and g’bye until next time!

ADDITIONAL PHOTO CREDITS:

• Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
• Dave M. Benett/Getty Images for Burberry
• Gareth Cattermole/Getty Images for Burberr/
• Suzanne Plunkett/Reuters

Friday Fun with Burberry Spring 2010

Hello-Hello, please allow us to express our gratitude that today is Friday.  Good grief, what a frenzied week!

As promised, we are finally posting photos from the Burberry Prorsum show at London Fashion Week, starting with celebrities on their way to the show.

Joel Ryan/AP

As always, Ms. Beckham is looking rather fierce. Below, the new star of the Burberry advertising campaign, Emma Watson.

Ian Gavan/Getty

A closer look at Ms. Watson’s shoes:

Ian Gavan/Getty

We love the way photographers at events are now shooting things like shoes.

Also on hand, über-prep Gwyneth Paltrow, seen below with Ms. Roberts.

Dave Hogan/Getty

On to the clothes:

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

We did love the pastel color palette.

We didn’t see one negative review of the show.  From the Suzy Menkes column in the IHT:

“…. Burberry Prorsum set a gold standard for London fashion week. The show was sophisticated, modern and about as far as you can step on giant platform shoes from Burberry’s muddy, military origins.”

Incredible best describes the draping on the pieces.

More from the IHT/NYT story by Ms. Menkes:

“Ironically, after a soggy, rain-soaked British summer 2009, Mr. Bailey offered only sunny weather clothes, created in the trench coat’s traditional neutral color or in macaroon pastels, from sugar pink and primrose yellow to ice blue.”

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Ms. Menkes continues with a look at the brand’s target demo:

“The brand may have deep British roots, but the clothes were aimed at the young, fast-paced international set.”

The Telegraph story took note of the number of celebrities in attendance:

Getty Images

From the left, Dev Patel, Freida Pinto, Alexa Chung and Mary-Kate Olsen.

There were bubble dresses and skirts accompanied by lots of ruching.

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

While not for TP, the pieces look stunning in the photos we have seen.

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

We have two more quick hits, the first from Milan Fashion Week (yes, it is already underway, can you believe it?!), as Vogue’s Anna Wintour escorts Roger Federer and his wife, Mirka Vravinec, to the Armani show.

Luca Bruno/AP

We close with an inside look at the clothing chosen by the PGA for our Presidents Cup committee members.

Courtesy Hickey Freeman

Below we see Greg Norman, President Obama, PGA Commissioner Tim Finchem, Fred Couples and Vice President Biden in the oval office with the Cup; the President is the honorary Chair of the event.

Courtesy Hickey Freeman

The apparel is by Hickey Freeman, a ‘go to’ for the Consort. Actual play gets underway October 6 at Harding Park in San Francisco.

May everyone have a simply splendid weekend filled with sun and relaxation!

Is Luxury Dead? Lower Prices for J. Crew? Is 60% Off the New Black?

DISCLAIMER: The following report is rated M for Mature; it descends to new lows in its frequent and flagrant use of the M word (money) and it is intended only for adult readers.

MPAA

Everywhere one looks there are stories about “the death of luxury.”

JP Morgan recently called upscale retailer Saks Fifth Avenue “the Gucci Blue Light Special,” referencing the deep discounts they have taken this fall. Below, the company’s sale page on their website.

Saks Fifth Avenue

The International Herald Tribune (as well as the NYT) ran a story Monday, “Luxe is losing its edge,” with the focus on struggles facing high-end jeweler Bulgari.

Courtesy Bulgari

The story also talks about stores cutting back on expansion plans, like Burberry, Cartier, Saks and others.

The “Sale” notices do continue to pour in via both email and standard mail, many from establishments one would never associate with such aggressive price cuts, like this one from Barneys:

Barneys New York

Previously, *if* for some insane reason stores felt forced to discount at this level, they hoped and prayed it would not negatively impact their image as purveyors of luxury goods.

We cannot remember the last time (if ever) we saw Burberry Prorsum selling for 60% off their original price, as is the case with the Empire Cocoon Coat.

Burberry Prorsum Cocoon Coat

Not everything at Burberry is marked down at that level; this children’s Argyle Sweater is “only 30% off.”

Burberry

The same is true for the children’s Wool Duffel Coat:

Burberry

There is even a post at Vivre Magazine online asking if “60% Off is the New Black?” The story raises the question that TP considers the elephant in the room for retailers:

“As stores slash and cut their prices just to hear the cash registers ring, you wonder if consumers will ever want to pay for full price for anything ever again. When this is all over, will any customer actually walk into ANY store and still look at Prada wallets and other designer handbags that used to be kept behind glass and are currently on tables and bins, the same way again?”

The Times ran a story in November “In Hard Times, No More Fancy Pants,” quoting one of our favorite authors:

“The era of conspicuous consumption, at least for the foreseeable future, has come to a close,” said Paco Underhill, the author of “Why We Buy,” which explores the science of retail.”

In yesterday’s WWD a story made the case that “Flaunting Days Are Over as Consumers Cut Back.“

The story by Sharon Edelson does feature an amazing Graff necklace that we simply had to share:

Graff Courtesy Photo

The piece is a little over the top in our estimation (this is where Great Aunt Molly would lower her voice and whisper ‘New money sweetie… you know what I mean.”).  Actually, the story channels GAM in a remarkable fashion:

“Logos are becoming less important, said Pedraza, noting that customers are starting to ask for unmarked brands. “People want very understated products,” he said. “They want to consume privately.”

“While people with new money tend to define themselves by their labels and what they spend, the rules are changing. People want to buy more classic luxury at better prices. They don’t want to be the people who are showing off.”

For many readers this is not exactly breaking news. How are you reacting? Are you simply purchasing necessities and/or discretionary items as desired, or waiting for markdowns? Or perhaps a mix of both…?

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While not considered a luxury retailer, J. Crew has also been in the news.  As reported on the WSJ Holiday Sales blog, J. Crew CEO Mickey Drexler said:

“J. Crew is trying to adapt, he said, by making small investments in new concepts, implementing a hiring freeze… looking at lowering opening price points for its crewcuts kids line.“

Did everyone notice the hiring freeze? We almost missed it upon reading about Crewcut prices, but it was noted in a story on GlobeSt, a real estate website:

“J. Crew has initiated a company-wide hiring freeze Drexler revealed, even during the holiday season… If someone wants to hire someone, someone’s got to leave,” Drexler said.”

Regular readers will remember Mr. Drexler’s comments shared in this post about lowering price points on some adult merchandise. Speaking about the overall climate for retailers:

“I’ve never seen anything like this in my life…”

“Right now we’re all a little afraid,” he said. “If there’s anyone getting up in the morning and not saying ‘uh oh,’ then I’d like some of that medication.”

If Mr. Drexler locates a source for those meds we hope he brings enough for the rest of the class.  If not, we fear we shall be forced to make do with a little Prozac latte.

Indeed.

Early Look at Ralph Lauren, Zegna & Burberry Spring 2009 Collections

Crazy as it sounds, fashion’s heavy hitters just finished showing their Spring/Summer 2009 Menswear collections in Paris and the different looks have been amazing. (And yes, a few are fodder for the “Help Me Understand” feature here at the Prepatorium.) We thought we would share a few with you. Above, two looks from the Ralph Lauren Purple Label line. Always brilliant, Suzy Mehnkes writes in the IHT (International Herald Tribune):

Ralph Lauren‘s neckties were so big, bold and colorful that it was as if the American designer, in his first presentation in Paris, were determined to bring the focus back on the symbol of men at work.

“The purple man is confident,” Lauren said in his program notes, referring to the Purple Label collection that has always been focused on the seductive, shapely pinstripes that seem like a caricature of the big boss. With them went ties as wide and bright as could fit under the lapels. But, significantly, Lauren had expanded the range by including upper-end sportswear – mostly jockey club elegant (think molded leather and race horses on the neckties) but also smart casual wear. That included not just the made-over vintage tennis looks but also ultra-light raincoats in high-tech fabrics.

We also took a glance at some of the Polo Ralph Lauren looks for the Resort/Spring 08/09 Women’s Collections.

Another favorite of The Princess, along with several siblings and The Princess Consort, is Ermenegildo Zegna, his tailoring skills evident in every part of the suit seen below.

Below right we have a divine piece from Loro Piana who makes just about the finest cashmere a Princess can buy, here with an ultra-light bomber jacket and on the right Burberry Prorsum’s “Crumpled Classics” collection designed by Christopher Bailey.

One FYI for true blue Burberry fans: if you would like to watch the entire Burberry 2009 runway show online you can do by clicking here or going to their front page. The same option is also available to the ladies, simply click on the Womenswear Link.

And now a gentle nudge for all the “Mad Men” fans out there: the Season 1 DVD is now available for your viewing pleasure! And for those who may not yet have seen it, get ready! This one is a must, absolutely, positively… a must. Non-fans are asking why all the hoo-hah, and well, to be frank Princess, why the somewhat dictatorial tone of this portion of the post?

We apologize if we sound overbearing, we just become so excited about little things like this that at times we find it difficult to maintain the proper level of decorum. Now back to the show! If you’ve not watched it, the show is set in 1960s New York, following high-powered advertising men on Madison Avenue, the women who love them, and it is edgy. The costumes and sets are just TDF (to die for), not to mention the hair and makeup; the whole thing definitely has an air of fantabulosity to it! And remember, Season 2 Premieres Sunday, July 27 at 10pm on AMC, so check your listings or go to amctv.com If you don’t care to wait that long to get in touch with the program there is an ‘official’ blog on the amc site and there is also a recently released music CD, Mad Men: Music from the Series, Vol. 1.