Yesterday we promised a look at more Fashion Week by designers with a preppish aesthetic, we’ll jump right in with this weekend’s Tommy Hilfiger show.
From WWD’s review (Women’s Wear Daily, subscription required):
With the preppy circuit a hallowed seedbed of loud color and louder pattern, one might expect its sartorial guru, Tommy Hilfiger, to blend right in this season. Yes and no. The engaging show he presented on Sunday night felt perfect for the moment, yet stood out on the strength of Hilfiger’s approach to patterns.
Ummm, “hallowed seedbed”? Anyone? Bueller?
We always enjoy the bright pops of color one sees more of in the spring collections, the pieces below are fun while also offering a touch of whimsical sophistication.
More from the Women’s Wear Daily story:
Rather than outsize florals, he chose magnified men’s wear checks and subtle shirting stripes. As expressions of the Pop motif, the former came bright (orange and blue; pink and green) in Modworthy cuts, and were shown in matchy-matched ways that looked charmingly contrived — swimsuit matching skirt, matching bag matching shoes.
Some of those menswear fabrics can be seen in the styles shown below:
The pieces above are lovely, especially the soft pink-peach on the far right. As some industry insiders expected, it seems there is a return to more ladylike styles, no complaints about that from these quarters.
Back to the the story in WWD:
However one feels about the military-combat staple prettied up in pink and blue (it resonated awkward on the 9/11 anniversary), it went on too long.
We concur with the sentiments on the camo, there were many more looks we haven’t shown, it simply didn’t fit with the rest of the collection, and it all started to look the same.
As for the voluminous Mondrian-inspired caftans, preppy girls don’t want to look fat, either. But these played like mere afterthoughts to an overall engaging collection.
From Vogue UK‘s review:
Tommy Hilfiger’s show last night focused on the fusion of preppy and pop, paying homage to the Sixties – a recurrent theme of the season, though the ensembles here were more amped up Ali McGraw in Love Story, than Mod-style sharp and bold.
Long the undisputed king of youth-driven sportswear, the Hilfiger of late is compelling, playing around with the classics and fine-tuning the brand’s new-found high-end prep signature.
Finally, several of the swimwear styles.
Among the celebrities on hand for the show, Malin Akerman, NBA star Carmelo Anthony and actress Abbie Cornish.
It wouldn’t be Fashion Week if we didn’t share at least a look or two from that wild and wacky guy, Thom Browne. (Yes, of the Brooks Brothers Black Fleece fame.) Below we share several styles from Monday’s runway show.
The designer presented his spring collection Monday in the hallowed halls of the New York Public Library. But this was no study hall. It wasn’t a typical fashion show, either
In a word, preppy. For spring, Thom Browne did away with some of the more severe silhouettes he typically favors and instead showed the kind of clothes his bosses at Brooks Brothers are well-versed in.
For women, Browne honed in on bright pink, green and yellow designs with a Sixties touch, which is a departure for the label. He also put together contrasting seersuckers, and added details such as three pockets on a lace dress.
We very much liked almost everything we saw for the ladies, the bias-cut silk dress on the far right is something we would love to see on, it looks like a slice of understated elegance on a hangar.
A final note on next spring’s Black Fleece collection from Women’s Wear Daily:
Browne’s uberprep moment doesn’t mean he turned his back entirely on some of his earlier designs. Black Fleece’s hallmark red, white and blue blazer was still there, this time in a silk rep tie fabric.
That makes for two design surprises today, frequent readers know we have been less than positive about many of Mr. Hilfiger’s previous collections, as well as Mr. Browne’s, we find ourselves embracing many pieces in both collections.
Not quite as extensive a look at Fashion Week as we had hoped, but the best we can do today! We’ll be back on Friday with more Fashion Week along with a few other little tidbits.